The Salomon-Undhof estate dates to 1792, and is currently on its 7th and 8th generation winemakers, father and son Bert and Bert Salomon. Their terraced vines overlooking the Danube have long been an excellent source, with the country’s foremost wine guide calling them a “figurehead of Austrian wine history.”
“Austrian wine” is nearly synonymous with Grüner-Veltliner, and indeed 75% of the world’s Grüner is Austrian. The grape’s typical expression is uncomplicated and fresh, with low alcohol and blend of savory, herbal, and dry fruit notes. But the Salomons expand what’s possible from the grape, and today’s cuvée is a whole other level of Grüner.
Salomon’s 2021 Grüner Veltliner “Wachtberg” is simply delicious. It’s classified Erste Lage (similar to premier cru in Burgundy), and we think it easily earns its higher rank. It shows the same fleshy dryness as Salomon’s humble Grüner “Wieden,” but with considerably more depth and complexity.
The nose is floral and beautiful, with savory/saline elements melting into lush ripe fruit. The Wine Advocate’s reviewer found notes of “blood orange and grapefruit zest,” calling it “clear, round and elegant.” The texture is more concentrated and waxy than most Grüners, but with the grape’s signature vibrant freshness. This will easily accompany foods with a bit of kick – think Thai cuisine or sushi with a healthy dose of wasabi. As warmer weather sets in, this is just the ticket.
Salomon-Undhof Grüner Veltliner “Wachberg” 2021
bottle price: $32
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