The Côtes des Bar and Chablis have a lot in common. They’re both satellite appellations of their respective areas (Champagne and Burgundy), and both produce wines of a slightly different style than their parent region. Chablis is a steelier, stonier, less-oaked version of Burgundy; the Côtes des Bar is a more Pinot Noir-focused Champagne, from more clay-rich soils. And though historically both have suffered a bit from their location off center stage, these days they’re both enjoying a moment in the spotlight.
We’ve got exciting new Chablis coming in May Futures next month, but today we’re focused on Champagne. Our producer in the Côtes des Bar is the Domaine Jacques Robin. The soils of this region are the same Kimmeridgian mixture as nearby Chablis — a blend of chalk, limestone, and clay, rather than the chalk-limestone of the rest of Champagne. The addition of clay gives the wines a broader mouthfeel than those from northern Champagne.
In short, Robin’s wines are delicious, user-friendly, and startlingly well-priced.
Robin’s Secret de Sorbée is pure Pinot Noir non-vintage Champagne, and majority of the current release is from the 2016 and 2017 vintages. The current release is as beautiful as always, and maybe more so. The nose is deep and delicious, with loads of depth and earthy richness. The barrel aging is apparent, resulting in toasty notes with fruit.
Look for notes of raspberry jam alongside buttered toast and violets. The mouth is plush and palate-coating, showing plum, butter, and minerals. It’s a perfect aperitif wine, round and delicious on its own; but also will work with your trickiest food parings. Whenever we open this wine, we promptly run out.
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Robin Secret de Sorbée NV
bottle price: $49