“Pure and Charming:” Chiseled, Delicious $35 White Burgundy

Picture Puligny-Montrachet; now halve the price.

Last week’s visit to Sebastien Giroux in Pouilly-Fuissé was a masterclass in deliberate, exquisite winemaking. Gone are the days of Pouilly-Fuissé meaning a glass of buttered popcorn and cream – Giroux’s wines are barely-oaked, sleek, chiseled, and pulsating with energy. They’re easily the most exciting new white Burgundies in our portfolio.

Giroux is a small scale winemaking with just 6 hectares of vines – they’re very much handmade, and obsessed over by a brilliant and focused winemaker. William Kelley discovered him last year, calling the wines “supple, pure, and charming.” They may be an hour south from Puligny and Chassagne, but we think pound for pound they’re easily as good, and probably better value.

The excellent 2020s will be included in next month’s May Futures, but we invite you to try out our current stock.

Pouilly-Fuissé “Raidillons” 2019 comes from limestone soils situated over marl. The wine spent about six months in barrels, followed by six months en cuve. The result is modern, expressive, simply gorgeous white Burgundy. The nose is a prototypical Maconnais: golden fruits, a whisper of oak, and a pleasant stony freshness. The mouth is concentrated and smooth, with a dollop of sucrocité on the attack, and a clean, focused, energetic finish.

For those familiar, picture a Thomas Morey Chassagne in a sunnier climate. William Kelley praised the 2019 Raidillons as “rich and layered,” “[u]nwinding in the glass with notes of pear and white flowers” and gave 90-92 points. There is a terrific mix of fruit and minerals here, offered in a racy style – thick texture but with excellent focus.

This spring’s visit confirmed last year’s discovery – Giroux is a real find, and, for now, still available.


Giroux Pouilly-Fuissé “Radillons” 2019
bottle price: $35

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