Worth the Wait: Dark, Beautiful, Everyday Languedoc Red. $25

A supply-chain disruption provides an unexpected gift.

The Languedoc is a vast winegrowing area stretching across the south of France between the Mediterranean and Bordeaux, and most of the wine made there is singularly undistinguished. But if one moves into the hills and foothills of its northern border, one can find excellent terroir.

The Clos Bagatelle is in one of these spots. They’re located St. Chinian, where good elevation and a range of soils — distinct areas of limestone, sandstone, and schist — have allowed the Deleuze family to make wines of character for many years. In fact, wine has been made at the property since 1643.

After several years away we’re excited to finally have their excellent “Fil de Soi” back in stock.

Bagatelle’s 2019 Fil de Soi is terrific. The wine is a blend of Mourvedre, Grenache, Syrah and Carignan. It is raised in a combination of large wood foudres and smaller barrels, which yields a wine that is always fleshy and rich. It opens with a nose of dark fruit and spice. In the mouth there are ripe plums mingled with a pleasant earthiness. The wine is full and round, with good persistence on the palate and a pleasant finish.

In the case of the 2019 vintage, the pandemic provided a gift. This wine often benefits from a bit of time in the cellar to let the elements fully integrate, and we find that it begins drinking particularly well about a year after it arrives. As luck would have it, Bagatelle couldn’t source enough bottles for this cuvée for over a year. So the wine got an extra year of elevage, finishing up with some months in concrete tanks, and the result this vintage is smooth, delicious, and ready for your summer table.


Bagatelle St-Chinian “Fil de Soi” 2019
bottle price: $25

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