Aligoté is having a moment in Burgundy. Vignerons have grown the grape here for centuries, but for most of that time it’s been considered an afterthought – a high-acid grape producing humble, refreshing, unserious wines.
But as summers grow ever hotter and growing seasons shorten, Burgundian growers perennially in search of freshness have begun to rethink the grape’s potential. There’s even a movement to consider allowing blending with Chardonnay for major appellations, should the trend of ever warmer and drier summers continue.
Vincent Boyer’s Bourgogne-Aligoté makes a powerful case for the grape’s potential. It’s not in the same class as his magnificent cuvées from Meursault and Puligny, of course; but it’s the classiest Aligoté we know, and a striking bargain.
Boyer’s 2020 Bourgogne-Aligoté continues to get better. The nose shows a beautiful bouquet of cortland apples, buttered toast and chalk. With its mild acidity and easy, fresh, lightweight mouthfeel, it’s worlds away from the aligoté of yesteryear.
William Kelley found it “seamless…satiny and racy, with a fleshy core of fruit.” Burghound gave it his “Outstanding” rating (a rarity for a wine of its humble level), writing of the wine’s “delicious and vibrant middle-weight flavors” with “very good density and a refreshing salinity.” Pour with seafood, grilled chicken, or any summertime fare.
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Boyer-Martenot Bourgogne Aligoté 2020
bottle price: $24