Winemaker Philippe Cheron doesn’t exactly look the part. His unkempt hair, bent spectacles, and meandering monologues call to mind an absent-minded professor of literature who hasn’t been outside in a while. But beneath the surface is a master winemaker with an extraordinary collection of vineyards comprising one of Burgundy’s most exciting new domaines.
Cheron combined his family holdings with the Domaine des Varoilles in 2019 to create the new Domaine du Couvent. Their enviable list of properties includes Nuits, Vosne, Chambolle and Gevrey, and ranges from Bourgogne to Grand Cru. Cheron’s style is sleek and pure, with less oak and more finesse than his predecessor at Varoilles.
We continue to be impressed with Cheron, as do Burgundy’s critics. Vinous’s Neal Martin calls the wines “splendid” and writes “definitely a grower that I will keep an eye on;” Burghound remarks “a domaine to watch going forward.”
We have a healthy lineup of wines in stock from Couvent, but today we’re focused on their 2020 village-level Chambolle-Musigny from the “Clos de l’Orme” plot. From a town known for its silky, seductive texture, Cheron has hit the nail squarely on the head with this wine. He combined the ripeness of the vintage with 25% whole clusters to produce and beautifully balanced and detailed wine that’s surprisingly delicious already.
Jasper Morris found “deep dark fruit” with “blackberry and blueberry on the nose.” Vinous’s Neal Martin praised the same wine as “fleshy and very easy-drinking.” Martin concluded: “Fine cohesion with just the right amount of tension on the finish, this is a well-crafted Chambolle-Musigny that will be difficult to resist in its youth.”
The length on this wine, particularly at the village level, is exceptional. Cheron is an exciting winemaker that we feel lucky to have, and today’s Chambolle is perfect example of his masterful craft.
“Clos de l’Orme” 2020
bottle price: $95