Most franco-oenofiles know Cabernet Franc for the supporting role it plays in the great wines of Bordeaux. And indeed, there are more Cabernet Franc vines in Bordeaux than anywhere else in France. But it’s in the central Loire Valley, in towns like Chinon, Borgeuil, and Saumur-Champigny, where the grape shines in a solo role.
In recent decades organic viticulture, balanced wines, and affordable prices have become the calling cards of the Loire Valley. Our producer here is the 6th generation Domaine des Sanzay, crafting subtle, organic, delicious wines that overperform their pricetags by a mile. Their 2019 Vieilles Vignes cuvée has seen a few years in the bottle and is beginning to unwind into an exquisite, detailed red wine. Look for a nose of berries, faint toast, cassis, earth and stones; the mouth is lively and long, with excellent intensity.
Serve this with something you’d normally pair with a red Burgundy, and don’t tell your guests what you paid.
____________________________
Sanzay Saumur-Champigny VV 2019
bottle price: $36
