“Austrian wine” is almost synonymous with Grüner-Veltliner, and indeed 75% of the world’s Grüner is Austrian. The grape’s typical expression is uncomplicated and fresh, with low alcohol and blend of savory, herbal, and dry fruit notes. But at Salomon-Undhof, one of the country’s most historic and important domaines, the Salomon family expands what’s possible from the grape.
Their 2021 Grüner Veltliner “Wachtberg” cuvée shows an extraordinary level of depth and complexity. It’s classified Erste Lage (similar to premier cru in Burgundy), and we think it easily earns its higher rank. The nose is floral and beautiful, with savory/saline elements melting into lush ripe fruit. The Wine Advocate’s reviewer found notes of “blood orange and grapefruit zest,” calling it “clear, round and elegant.” The texture is more concentrated and waxy than most Grüners, but with the grape’s signature vibrant freshness.
This will easily accompany foods with a bit of kick – think Thai cuisine or sushi with a healthy dose of wasabi. But it’s a delight on its own after a long summer day.
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Salomon-Undhof Grüner Veltliner “Wachtberg” 2021
bottle price: $32
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