Romain Collet took over his family’s estate a decade, and has transformed it from a good if occasionally inconsistent source to a reliably excellent domaine. He’s expertly navigated the changing climate, which has affected Chablis perhaps more dramatically than other French region. Jasper Morris MW writes that he “is moving towards joining the pantheon” in Chablis; William Kelley writes that the wines “have taken another step up in quality…mark this out as an estate to follow closely.”
Collet’s 2022 village-level Chablis is simply delicious. A very ripe vintage and early harvest produced lush, abundant fruit with excellent concentration. And yet Romain harvested early enough (August 28th) to preserve the freshness and vibrant character of the wine. This unoaked, plum, energetic wine isn’t one for the back of the cellar – but it’s too tasty to last that long anyway.
Look for notes of green apple and lemon curd in the nose alongside chalk and oyster shells – the aromatics are exceptional this year, and more reminiscent of a premier cru. The mouth is punchy and fine, finishing very dry and clean. Serve this with Chicken Schnitzel.
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Collet Chablis 2022
bottle price: $29