The 2015 vintage was just about perfect from top to bottom – warm but not scorching conditions, dry but no drought, good quantity and outstanding quality. It was also a vintage that was excellent at every level, from regional Bourgognes all the way up to Grand Cru.
At the premier cru and grand cru levels, most 2015s are deep in their mid-life hibernation – nothing wrong with them today, but years away from beginning to express their full potential. At the village level, however, things are starting to wake up.
Today we’re suggesting a 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin from Domaine des Varoilles, a shuttered domaine whose vines now operate under the Domaine du Couvent label. The “Clos du Meix des Ouches” is a small monopole at the edge of the town. It’s surrounded by an old wall, which blocks the wind and traps warmth, making its wines particularly round.
Writing several years ago, Jancis Robinson found it “rather gorgeous,” finding it has “already lots of pleasure but with the tannins to keep it in shape.” Burghound found it “solidly concentrated” and “sleekly textured.” This is a delight today – look for black pepper, mushrooms, anise, dried red berries and cocoa.
Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin 1er
“Clos du Meix des Ouches” 2015
bottle price: $88
3+ bottle price: $74.80 (use code FRIDAY)