Smooth, Dark-Fruited 5-Year-Old Cornas

Spice and black fruits combine for an irresistible wintertime Syrah

Stephane Robert of the Domaine du Tunnel is one of the brightest stars in Cornas. He’s humble and quiet in person, but his wines are bold, assertive, and charming. Robert farms an envious collection of old syrah vines around the tiny appellation, and his wines are well worthy of their hype. Vinous calls Tunnel “among the top producers of Cornas.”

Cornas is the southernmost appellation in the Northern Rhône. Its rules are northern: pure, unblended Syrah that ages for decades. But Cornas (which means “scorched earth” in Celtic) harvests a week earlier than Hermitage (just 20 minutes north), and the steep sundrenched slopes produce wines with a bit of southern, sunbaked character.

Tunnel’s 2017 Cornas is a classic – now five years on from harvest it still shows abundant dark fruit but has begun to add irresistible earthy and spice notes. Vinous and Wine Advocate both awarded 92 points, finding it “loaded with blackberries, cassis and plums,” with “very good depth as well as energy” alongside “supple tannins.” It’s a perfect choice for a Sunday afternoon roast.

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Tunnel Cornas 2017
bottle price: $68

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