“Supple and Charming:” Superb, Bursting, Organic Gamay

William Kelley, 92pts “fleshy and lively wine framed by sweet, powdery tannins.”

It doesn’t take an expert to notice that Guillaume Goujon and Sebastien Dupré are farming organically. Their vines, located in the Côte de Brouilly, share the earth with an impressive array of herbs, flowers, grasses, and wildlife – all in the name of fostering biodiversity and soil health. In the cellar Dupré and Goujon have a similarly light touch – their cuvées are made with whole clusters, ambient yeasts, limited oak and almost no sulfites.

The resulting wines are remarkably complex, and yet immaculately crafted – no funk or off notes to be found. Our favorite cuvée is their “631” Côte de Brouilly, and we weren’t alone – customers told us they didn’t know it was possible for so much depth and elegance to be packed into a bottle of gamay. The texture is refreshing and thirst-quenching, but the underlying fruit is detailed and very fine. William Kelley agreed with our enthusiasm, calling the wines “supple and charming” and labeling it “an estate to watch.”

The 2020 “Cuvée 631” keeps getting better. The nose shows perfume of violets and roses, with a fruit profile somewhere between Pinot and Syrah. The mouth is sturdier and more complex, with perfectly coated tannin and a dark, crackling finish. Kelley awarded 92 points, finding “Aromas of sweet berries, spices and loamy soil [in a] fleshy and lively wine framed by sweet, powdery tannins.”


Dupré-Goujon Côte de Brouilly “631” 2020
bottle price: $35

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