“Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons.”
Thus begins Master of Wine Jasper Morris’s review of the Gautheron 2022s from late last year. Morris is an eloquent, experienced, almost comically British wine writer, who doesn’t throw the word “superb” around lightly. And so while we at Ansonia have held this opinion of Cyril Gautheron for years, we took note.
Last week we sat down to taste samples of Cyril’s 2022s and were entirely blown away – the only difficulty was eliminating any of them. As Morris points out, they walk the line perfectly between the fleshy fruit of modern Chablis and the brisk, vibrant zip of old. Cyril is rarely one to doubt himself – Morris calls him “a bundle of energy, full of theories, questioning received wisdom” – but with wines like these there’s little to doubt.
Gautheron’s entire lineup of five terrific 2022s will be in next Sunday’s March Futures release, but we’re focusing on one today: the Chablis Vieilles Vignes. Gautheron raises a fifth of this wine in barrel, an unusual move for this village level cuvée – but as with everything Cyril does, it’s well thought out and very successful. As Morris puts it, this is “cool, classical Chablis.”
Gautheron’s 2022 Chablis VV is a bundle of fleshy energy – everything you want from Chablis, and an extraordinary value under $25 Futures. The wood is nearly impossible to detect adding depth, sophistication, and unusual refinement for its level. We found notes of oyster shells, lemon pulp, and chalk. Morris gave this wine his 5-star distinction, awarded to less than 10% of the wines he tastes, and signifying “outstanding wine in its category.” He found old-vine “flesh apparent even on the nose” with “excellent tension behind” and “a searing chiseled white fruit.”
We’d struggle to find a more impressive white Burgundy at this price point. Add a case to your cellar and enjoy this all spring and summer long.
Part of March 2023 Futures
To order this wine, email Tom
