The winemakers of Chablis have felt the effects of climate change more than most. They’re particularly susceptible to damaging spring frosts, and recent warm dry summers have produced wines that sometimes obscure the signature piercing minerality of classical Chablis. But one silver lining has been the rising quality of regional-level wines.
Wines of the Petit Chablis appellation, the bottom of the area’s appellation pyramid, have improved noticeably, and now carry the depth and complexity once only found at the village level. Many readers snapped up our advance offer for Cyril Gautheron’s 2022 Vieilles Vignes over the weekend, and his terrific lineup for 2022 premier crus will be released Sunday in March Futures. But for readers in need of something before May, we’re already well-stocked on his excellent 2022 Petit Chablis.
Raised entirely in stainless steel, this is Chardonnay at its purest and most stripped down. It’s bursting with classic citrus and minerals, with excellent tension across a surprisingly long mouthfeel. “Nicely focused,” writes Neal Martin in Vinous, “well-proportioned with a fine ‘bite’ of acidity…well crafted Petit Chablis.” Simply delicious unoaked Chablis, for whenever Spring decides to arrive.
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Gautheron Petit Chablis 2022
bottle price: $28