Master of Wine Jasper Morris writes that “Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons.” The average Chablis may be riper and rounder than a decade ago, but for traditional Chablisien punch and zip, we always reach for Gautheron.
Cyril farms a handful of plots at the premier cru level, scattered across the appellation. His vines in the premier cru “Fourneaux” are out the window of his domaine, up a side valley near his native Fleys. The plot is south facing with lots of sun, but high in elevation and steep, providing much-needed air flow and drainage.
The 2022 is terrific. Gautheron decided it needed no oak, and he’s right. The nose is very expressive – orchard fruits, lemon peel, and stones. In the mouth a mineral punch and notes of saline mix in with the smooth yellow fruit, making for a persistent palate and a long finish. Bill Nanson called it “a fabulous wine,” and we think the balance and tension are perfect.
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Gautheron Chablis 1er “Fourneaux” 2022
bottle price: $42
