Of our six Futures issues each year, November has the most obvious star power. The Domaines Michel Gros and Boyer-Martenot are two of the most recognizable in our portfolio, top talent farming some of Burgundy’s iconic terroirs. Boyer holds vines in all three of Meursault’s famous premier crus (Charmes, Genevrieres and Perrieres) as well as the Puligny gem “Cailleret;” Gros’s envy-inducing lineup now includes three hallowed Grand Crus: Clos Vougeot, Echezeaux, and Richebourg. In other words, this is the Big Leagues.
And while few of these wines would be considered weeknight staples, the Gros and Boyer lineups have withstood much of the pressure of the latent Burgundy bubble. All but ten of the twenty-six wines remain in double-digit pricing territory, and at the regional level they both produce exceptional value cuvées. Both producers’ full lineups will be in next Sunday’s November Futures release, but we’re delighted to offer both of their sub-$30 Bourgogne Côte d’Or today.
Boyer-Martenot Bourgogne Blanc Côte d’Or 2022
Vincent Boyer now works with his sister Sylvie, and together they share the viticulture (mostly her) and winemaking (mostly him). They’ve nearly completed their conversion to organic farming, and their always excellent wines have become even better in recent years. The Boyers use an extended two-year elevage in oak barrels and then concrete eggs, and the resulting wines are sleek and full, steering well clear of the traps of overoaking and heaviness.
Boyer’s Bourgogne Côte d’Or comes from vines near his hometown of Meursault, and well overperforms the category. (After a price spike caused by last year’s catastrophic vintage where some plots lost 90% from hail, Boyer actually lowered his prices this year – about as unheard of in Burgundy as disinflation is over here.) The resulting wine is as good as sub-$30 Burgundy comes. Burghound found the nose “elegant” and “exuberantly fresh,” with “delicious and equally vibrant flavors” in the mouth. This may be “just” a Bourgogne, but it is remarkable wine, whatever the label says.
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Boyer Bourgogne blanc 2022
Ansonia Retail: $456
November Futures: $350/case
Gros Bourgogne Rouge Côte d’Or 2022
The “Michel” of Gros fame is now fully retired – or, at least, as fully retired as a winemaker can be with 45 vintages under his belt, a house nearby, and his name on the label. His son Pierre has taken the reins, representing, in Neal Martin’s words, “a change in tack rather than charting a totally different course.” Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and if his first few vintages at the helm are any indication, the future at Gros may be even brighter than the past.
Like Boyer’s, Gros’s Bourgogne Côte d’Or comes from vines just outside his hometown – in this case Vosne-Romanée. It’s middleweight and pretty, with red currants and violets in the nose; the mouth has mild tannins and a pleasant earthy and floral finish. This year Burghound found “good vibrancy and detail,” and Neal Martin called it “quite fleshy and dense.” It drinks effortlessly from the start, and however much we set aside for ourselves, we always wish it were more.
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Gros Bourgogne rouge 2022
Ansonia Retail: $456
November Futures: $350/case
Part of November 2024 Futures
Available by the case and half-case
Wines expected January 2025
Pickup free, shipping not included
No further discounts, quantities limited
