Dry, Rich, Intense Loire Valley Chenin Blanc

Pear, chalk, white pepper, and smoke.

The Loire Valley is an enormous region, stretching more than half-way across France. Indeed it’s better thought of as three regions: Upper Loire in the east (Sancerre), Lower Loire in the West (Muscadet), and Central Loire between. The Central Loire is the most diverse, producing white, red, rosé, sparkling, sweet and dry wines – but its most famous product is Vouvray.

Chenin Blanc from Vouvray is one of France’s cornerstone wines, in production since at least the 9th Century. Our source here is Catherine Dhoye-Deruet of the Domaine de la Fontainerie – her family has made wine here for 300 years, and the domaine has been under her steady guidance for the last 30.

Many readers will know her classic, lightweight dry “Vouvray Sec” which has quickly become a favorite in our shop since its introduction last year. Her second, more serious cuvée comes from “Les Brûlés,” a south-facing plot of chalk limestone soils. The extra sun and deeper soils add more depth to the wine, and the 2022 Vouvray “Coteau les Brûlés” is deep and floral. The nose is perfumed and lovely with notes of baked apple crisp; the mouth is dry but fuller and riper than the Sec. Again there’s no oak, but there’s more savory spice behind the lush fruit.

Serve this with spicy fish tacos, or sushi with wasabi and pickled ginger – this wine can handle some flavor competition.

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Fontainerie Vouvray Sec “Coteau les Brûlés” 2022
bottle price: $28

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