Chablis continues to be an excellent source for well-priced everyday white Burgundy – weeknight bottles that are crisp, useful, and delicious. But high-end Chablis can be extraordinary. Cuvées from Chablis’s seven famous Grand Crus show a depth and power that’s remarkable for a white wine.
Romain Collet’s finest wine is his Grand Cru Valmur, and it’s particularly good in 2022. It’s the product of impressive terroir in a concentrated vintage, but Romain has expertly balanced Chablis’s signature minerality with the concentration. Neal Martin of Vinous gave 94 points citing “marine influence: oyster shell and a tang of seaweed.” He continues “the palate is well-balanced, with a keen thread of acidity…smooth in texture, almost creamy towards the finish, it contains plenty of energy.”
Lots of Chablis has gotten richer in recent vintages, and some cuvées have fallen into the overoaking trap. But Valmur has always been big wine, with more than enough structure to handle barrel aging. The nose shows explosive and delicious, showing gardenia, green tea, and baked lemon flavors, with a bright chalky stoniness that enhances the fruit. The mouth is simply packed with flavor — it’s bold and rich, but vibrant in texture. A grand wine for a grand occasion.
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Collet Chablis Grand Cru “Valmur” 2022
bottle price: $85
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