Cornas is a tiny gem of an appellation. It covers 350 acres and is home to just 50 vignerons. The name comes from the Celtic word for “burnt earth,” and it’s an appropriate moniker: Cornas is pure Syrah like the rest of the Northern Rhône, but the feel is of something sunnier from further South.
Today fifth generation winemaker Nicolas Serrette farms a miniscule 1.8 hectares (4 acres) in Cornas. Simon Field MW of Berry Brothers writes of the Dumien-Serrette wines’ “granitic splendor” and “beguiling floral elegance which sets them apart.” Their old vines produce intense, teeth-staining Syrah, with extraordinary depth but remarkable freshness.
Their primary cuvée is called “Patou,” made from 80+ year old syrah vines – and that’s their “young vine” bottling. The 2022 is terrific, a symphony of spice and deep black fruit. At 13% alcohol it’s sunny and ripe without an ounce of heaviness, the calling card of top Northern Rhône reds. The nose is deep and perfumed with notes of dark cherry, spices, cocoa and cured meats. The mouth is dark and rich but with sturdy tannin and a pleasant savory element. Serve with spring lamb, or cellar for up to a decade.
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Dumien-Serrette Cornas “Patou” 2022
bottle price: $58
