The red wines of the Loire Valley always play second fiddle to the region’s whites. But it’s a mistake to ignore them – they’re well balanced, low-alcohol, usually organic, and often exceptional values. Our favorites these days are the unblended, unoaked Cabernet Francs from the central Loire.
We visited winemakers Celine and Didier Sanzay last week at their domaine in the central Loire Valley. They’re fifth generation growers in Saumur-Champigny producing fresh, pure Cabernet Franc in the modern Loire style — small batch, organic, wild yeasts, no fining or filtering. Their 2023s in particular are “Loire classique” Didier told us last week – a return to the refreshing, low-alcohol.
Their 2023 Saumur-Champigny is exactly what you want Loire Cab Franc to be: pure, joyful, unoaked, and fresh. Clean, juicy fruit bursts from the glass on the nose — think wild cherries and graphite. The mouth is fresh, fruit forward, inky, and intense, with a bold and vibrant attack and a quick clean finish. Picture a juicy Beaujolais with more serious texture and darker fruit.
Consider it an alternative to your everyday, catch-all Côtes-du-Rhône red. As spring weather arrives, this is the perfect patio red.
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Sanzay Saumur-Champigny 2023
bottle price: $22
