On Monday we tasted with Pierre Gros, winemaker at the domaine Michel Gros in Vosne-Romanée. The baton has passed gradually and smoothly at this domaine, and while his father Michel and his 45 years of experience are always available, Pierre has unmistakably taken the reins. Neal Martin writes “I detect a change in tack rather than charting a totally different course,” and we tend to agree. If his first few vintages at the helm are any indication, the future at Gros may be even brighter than the past.
Gros’s 2023s – still in barrel through the spring and summer – are magnificent: lush and ripe but with exceptional tension and fresh, crackling mouthfeels. (As usual they’ll be on offer in November.) But the 2022s have just begun to drink beautifully – it’s a similar vintage to 2023 in style, but with a dose more intensity, and a softer patina from the year in the bottle.
Gros’s Hautes Côtes de Nuits “Au Vallon” comes from south-facing vines and with extra sun always achieves a bit more ripeness – it’s regional level burgundy but with unusually fine character. Burghound awarded his “ outstanding” designation to this wine, finding “sleek, vibrant and utterly delicious flavors.” Neal Martin of Vinous found “a lovely nose with rose-petal-tinged red cherry and crushed strawberry fruit.” Anyone searching for everyday Burgundy value of the highest caliber should take note.
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Gros Hautes-Côtes de Nuits “Au Vallon” 2022
bottle price: $42
