The 2023 Burgundies continue to delight. It’s a terrific vintage in both colors – the reds are characterful and intense with tremendous freshness and lovely fruit; the whites are vibrant and delicious, clear and compelling representations of their terroir.
The world has by now discovered St-Aubin, the once secret town tucked away up a valley between Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet. But if it’s less hidden than it once was, its wines are better than ever. At the western edge of the appellation lies a plot named “Murgers des Dents de Chiens.” Perched just up the hill from Montrachet itself, this St. Aubin premier cru is a remarkable value.
Thomas’s “Murgers des Dents de Chien” is terrific this year. The nose offers a touch of oak with the ripe orchard fruit, and in the mouth there is good amplitude across the palate. “Fresh, flavourful and full of fruit,” writes Jancis Robinson. Though this Murgers 2023 is generous in the mouth, it is more than usual a wine of finesse rather than power. This wine will best show its considerable beauty with a subtle flatfish meunière (say Grey or Dover sole).
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Thomas St-Aubin 1er “Murgers” 2023
bottle price: $58
