We thought it might not be possible for Cyril Gautheron to follow his extraordinary 2022s with anything similar – but his 2023s are every bit as good, and in some cases even better. He remains a steadfast defender of classical Chablis, even amid the headwinds of market tastes and a warming climate.
Gautheron’s Chablis premier cru “Vaucoupin” vineyard has always been among our favorites – so complete and balanced is the expression from the soil that Cyril ages it entirely in stainless steel, a rarity for a Chablis Premier Cru these days. The 2023 is a triumph of restraint – beautiful, understated wine that’s friendly and pairs with just about anything.
The mouthfeel is fine and delicate, and the balance is particularly good, with freshness tied into a palate that nonetheless feels round and supple. In the nose, floral notes of acacia join the clean lemon fruit. Jasper Morris found “plenty of tension on the palate, discreet in the middle, a little richer at the finish. . . . Classy yet of medium body.” This is prototypical Chablis, and it wants for nothing.
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Gautheron Chablis 1er “Vaucoupin” 2023
bottle price: $48
