Pierre Vessigaud is a committed biodynamic vigneron whose wines are Demeter certified, the highest organic classification. In the bottle this translates to superb purity and clarity, with careful elevage and excellent balance. Combine this with an envious array of vineyards, including two of Pouilly-Fuissé’s newly minted premier crus, and we think this domaine is a real find. As William Kelley puts it, “succulent but serious, any bottle bearing Vessigaud’s label is worth seeking out.”
Vessigaud’s premier crus are magnificent and offer tremendous value, but we’ve also been particularly impressed by his everyday wines. His regional-level cuvées perform admirable impressions of the fancier Pouilly-Fuissés, and offer exceptionally good pricing. Our favorite among them is the Macon-Fuissé “Les Taches,” a gem of a vineyard from just outside the appellation – we think of it as a baby Pouilly-Fuissé.
The vines are high up a hill right on the border with Pouilly-Fuissé. It’s both vinified and raised in 5-10 year old oak barrels, and while there’s no new oak this cuvée has the added weight and complexity of a more serious wine. The nose is gorgeous and floral; the mouth is rich and smooth and not a bit lacking in acidity. It’s a nice counterpoint to the totally unoaked Macon-Solutré-Pouilly – richer and longer but no less fresh. It well overperforms its appellation, and we think of it as a baby Pouilly-Fuissé.
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Vessigaud Macon-Fuissé “Les Taches” 2023
bottle price: $32
