In recent years the Northern Rhône valley has become a source of unusual value. As prices in Burgundy have skyrocketed, and prices in Bordeaux have whipsawed back and forth, Côte Rôtie and Cornas have maintained a steady, modest rise. The wines have never been better, and suddenly they seem like bargains.
Take today’s wine – Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s 2020 Côte Rôtie “Rochins.” On a whim we opened a bottle this week with a pot roast, and it knocked our socks off. In complexity, layers, and depth, it easily competes with a premier cru from the Côte de Nuits – the meaty character reminded us of an old-vine Nuits-St-Georges. Those mostly run $120-$150 these days; while not exactly a by-the-glass candidate, Bonnefond’s Rochins doesn’t even crack $80.
Rochins comes from 60+ year old vines in a parcel just next to the famous Côte Blonde and Côte Brune. The nose is dark and woodsy with an irresistible mixture of spices, wild cherries, smoke and violets. The mouth is velvety and beautiful, still with plenty of material but beginning to put on a smooth patina now five years after harvest. It’s gotten pretty chilly here in Boston over the last few weeks – this wine is as cozy as a warm winter blanket.
____________________________
Bonnefond Côte Rôtie “Rochins” 2020
bottle price: $78
