Everything in Cornas is small, but the Domaine Dumien-Serrette is tiny. Today fifth generation winemaker Nicolas Serrette farms just 1.8 hectares (4 acres) of his family’s ancient vines. Simon Field MW of Berry Brothers writes of the Dumien-Serrette wines’ “granitic splendor” and “beguiling floral elegance which sets them apart.” Their old vines produce intense, concentrated Syrah, with extraordinary depth but remarkable freshness.
Their primary cuvée is called “Patou,” made from 80+ year old syrah vines – and that’s their “young vine” bottling. The 2023 is terrific, and follows a similar pattern to the 2023 red Burgundies: it bears a strong resemblance to the 2022s, but with more lift and energy. Once upon a time a tasting of young Cornas would be considered work, and you might have to brush your teeth afterwards – but not today.
The 2023 is so well balanced it was hard to spit out even during our barrel tasting. Vinous’s reviewer found it “gorgeous” with “floral nuance” and “spot-on balance.” It’s sleek, dense, silky Syrah with a gorgeous sweet dark fruited nose and a refined, detailed palate. Serrette used 100% whole clusters this year, and the delicate tannin behind the perfectly ripe fruit is magnificent. In short, fans of this wine will rejoice; those unfamiliar will immediately become converts.
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Dumien-Serrette Cornas “Patou” 2023
bottle price: $58
