The test of great winemakers is how they perform in the face of adversity. In sunny, dry vintages like 2023, just about everyone made tasty wine. But success in a challenging year speaks far more; and there’s rarely been a more difficult vintage than 2024. Some winemakers struggled, but others excelled; and Gautier Desvignes proved himself an exceptional talent.
We’ve long been fans of the Desvignes wines, but it was nice to see Vinous’s Neal Martin (a notoriously exacting critic) heap praises on Gautier’s wines – and particularly impressive when his first visit there was to review the 2024s. “Commendable purity, fine tannins, and clear evidence of thoughtful winemaking,” was Martin’s conclusion – well deserved accolades for an impressive young vigneron.
Gautier’s terrific lineup of 2024s will be in next Sunday’s “May Futures” release, but today we’re focusing on his best value: the village-level Givry “Champ la Dame.” Gautier has managed the balance of tannin, acidity, fruit and weight with impeccable precision in this wine – it’s elegant, fresh and vibrant in the nose, with notes of violets and cassis. He dialed back pigéage (punching down the cap during fermentation) and the resulting low alcohol (13%) wine has an irresistible texture: silky, fine-grained, with an almost mouthwatering tension and finesse.
Neal Martin found “lift and delineation on the nose” with a “cold stone element tucked under the raspberry and cranberry fruit.” In the mouth he found “pliant tannins, a keen line of acidity, quite elegant in style with a cohesive finish.” With a $32 Futures pricetag, it’s hard to imagine a better value red Burgundy.
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Desvignes Givry “Champ la Dame” 2024
case price: $504
May Futures: $395 ($32.92/bot)
Email Tom to Order
