Nine-Year-Old Grüner That Drinks Like Burgundy

From Austria's famed Wachtberg vineyard, a remarkably youthful 2017 with citrus, chalk, and white pepper.

Salomon Undhof is a centuries-old winery in Krems, Austria overlooking the Danube River. Today 7th and 8th generation winemakers Bert and Bert Salomon run the estate, and they’re among the best respected sources in the region. They’ve become favorites of many readers (as well as our own family) and we’re delighted to bring them back by popular demand.

“Austrian wine” is nearly synonymous with Grüner-Veltliner, and indeed 75% of the world’s Grüner is Austrian. Much of it is dry, crisp, unserious wine that matches will with hot weather and light fare – the Salomons’ “Hochterrassen” is just such a wine. But they also produce a more serious cuvée, that’s more interesting and flat out delicious.

Salmon’s more serious cuvée of Grüner Veltliner comes from the 1ÖTW Wachtberg vineyard, and the domaine has held some of the 2017 for a delayed release. Now with nine years under its belt, this is fully mature but remarkably youthful. There’s no hint of oxidation – the nose shows dried pears and with woodsy notes you might confuse with white Burgundy. The mouth is mellow and very long, with notes of chalk, citrus peel, white pepper, and just a whisper of salinity at the end. A dry, delicate, delightful cuvée that calls for sushi.

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Salomon-Undhof Grüner Veltliner “Wachtberg” 2017
bottle price: $28

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