Fine-Grained, “Engaging” Premier Cru Red Burgundy. $45

Medium-bodied, the fruit is lifted and almost weightless on the palate, yet a smoky core from the iron-rich soils roots the wine and lends it an extra dimension."

Gautier Desvignes is a humble thirtysomething winemaker with a near limitless attention to detail. He landed back at his family’s domaine a decade ago, and has since quietly transformed it into one of the region’s superstars. His 2023s were a tour de force (we bought them twice) – ripe and sleek with perfect extraction and maturity, vibrant textures, and elegant, lifting finishes.

Writing last month for The Wine Advocate, Burgundy reviewer Kenna Wells found Gautier’s wines “inherently charming yet still firmly anchored in terroir….These are, to my mind, among the most convincing examples of the vintage, and the domaine as a whole comes highly recommended.” Neil Martin cites “commendable purity, fine tannins, and clear evidence of thoughtful winemaking.”

Our favorite cuvée of Gautier’s in 2023 was probably the Givry 1er cru “Clos Charlé.” It’s a plot that produces elegant, chiseled wines, with beautiful detail and loads of dark fresh fruit. The tannins are fine grained and seamless, with pretty notes of rose petals and cool berries. It has the weight of a Beaune 1er cru, with a stony freshness amid the perfectly detailed fruit. Wells found it “almost weightless on the palate… Serious in shape, but animated and highly drinkable,” concluding “especially engaging.”

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Desvignes Givry 1er “Clos Charlé” 2023
bottle price: $45

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