Hailing from the western end of the Loire, just before it flows into the Atlantic, Muscadet is France’s go-to wine for oysters. Walk up to a seafood counter in St. Malo or Cancale to slurp a dozen, and you’ll likely be invited to wash them down with a pitcher of Muscadet. Simple, saline and refreshing, it’s a delicious pairing of like with like, and when you finish it can be hard not to queue up for another six oysters or so.
The wine comes from a grape called Melon de Bourgogne, and “melon” (honeydew, not cantaloupe) is a pretty good match for the wine’s aroma. The varietal is light on flavor, so winemakers leave their juice on the lees (Sur Lie) for at least two years to impart flavor and savory richness to the profile. The resulting wine is bone dry, saline, and mouthwatering with notes of bitter grapeskin and stones.
Our source for Muscadet is the Domaine Martin-Luneau, whose wine is so popular as to be difficult to keep in stock. Their 2022 Muscadet “Clisson” has just arrived – notes of lime rind, salt air, and melon in the nose join a zippy, refreshing mouth that immediately calls to mind the stark, windswept Breton coast.
Shellfish is the most perfect match, but it’s not the only. The wine is a great pairing for a stir fried seafood, cutting through the fat beautifully. Or try it with grilled shrimp or fin fish — it’s a versatile companion for seafood of all sorts. Or just a crumbly goat cheese.
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Martin-Luneau Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine
Sur Lie “Clisson” 2022
bottle price: $25
