We find some of our favorite values in towns just off the beaten path. The neighbor villages of Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet are the world’s best known sources for fine white wine. But just two miles to the west lies the often-overlooked town of Saint-Aubin, which turns out to be an exceptional source for value in white Burgundy.
The Thomas family has an intimate knowledge of the terroir of St-Aubin, where they’ve lived and made wine for over 70 years. Together with his two daughters, Gérard makes understated, highly affordable wines that are consistently delicious. They’re usually too drinkable to last very long in our cellars, but we managed to forget about a few cases of the 2013. It’s just beautiful today.
The 2013 St-Aubin “Champ Tirant” is a pure expression of a single terroir. A few years in the bottle has given it an impressive grace and poise. The nose shows delicate yellow fruits and muted toasty notes like baked lemon and almond. The mouth retains enough freshness to help pair it beautifully with food, but enough richness and stuffing to make it drink like a far pricier wine.
Food pairings for white Burgundy are easy. According to Sommelier Rajat Parr, who calls St-Aubin a source “for some of the best-value Chardonnay in the world,” white Burgundy pairs best “with oilier and meatier poached fish like halibut, salmon, monkfish, cod and grouper.” Monkfish is a particular favorite at our house, particularly Thomas Keller’s Roasted Monkfish with butter and rosemary.
We also love this with whole roasted chicken. Cook the bird with rosemary, lemon, and garlic, and enjoy the smells from the kitchen as they meld into the aromas from the glass.
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Thomas St-Aubin 2013
Ansonia Retail: $36
6+ bottle price : $32/bot
FREE EAST COAST SHIPPING ON ANY 12 BOTTLES
