We used to wonder why the humble Bourgogne rouge from the Domaine des Varoilles was so good. During our visit to Philippe Cheron last month we found the answer. He explained that the grapes for this cuvée come from vines planted in what until recently was village-level Gevrey-Chambertin.
It answered a lot. The wine is always dark, juicy and plummy, bearing strong resemblance to the Côte de Nuits’s boldest appellation. The 2020 from barrel a few weeks ago was a knockout, and we’ve reserved a bunch for when it finally arrives in bottle. But the 2019 has arrived this week at last, and the bottle we opened last night was just terrific.
Varoilles 2019 Bourgogne is the last vintage under the old label (beginning next year it will be Domaine du Couvent), but whatever’s on the outside of the bottle, the inside is tremendous. The nose is dark, jammy and full of spice like cinnamon and cocoa. The mouth is rich and delicious with way more stuffing than most Bourgognes. The tannins are delicious and inviting with smooth texture and excellent freshness.
Writer Bill Nanson found it “big, mouth-filling wine,” with “plenty of concentration.” We can’t think of a more impressive regional level Burgundy in our lineup. Close your eyes and you’ve got a village-level Gevrey; but whatever you call it, you’ll want another glass of this.
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Varoilles Bourgogne 2019
bottle price: $36
