There’s no more exciting corner of Burgundy today than the Beaujolais. Long derided as a source for inexpensive plonk, the wines made here today are as dynamic and delicious as anything in the Côte d’Or – and at a fraction of the price. Wine writer Stuart Piggott calls Beaujolais “the best value reds in the world,” and it’s easy to see why.
A new wave of exciting winemakers priced out of the land market in the north of Burgundy has landed in the Beaujolais; and while we’re sure they’d make tasty wine in Beaune, they’re more than succeeding in Brouilly. Frederic Berne is a leader in this new Beaujolais – passionate about organic viticulture and low intervention cellarwork, he’s typical of this exciting and innovative wave.
Berne’s 2022 Chiroubles is seriously good gamay. It’s concentrated and sturdily built – it would age several years with ease – but carefully balanced with acidity and lush fruit. The appellation’s signature deep rose petal nose is there, joined by a burst of wild cherry and a zip of stony minerals. This cuvée benefits from the hot dry vintage, combining ripe fruit and refreshing granite into a tasty package.
____________________________
Berne Chiroubles 2022
bottle price: $29
