Punchy, Terrific $22 Old-Vine Sauvignon Blanc

No-nonsense Loire Valley white from Sancerre’s scrappy neighbor

Winemaker Frederic Michot is as brisk and energetic as his wines: pure Sauvignon blanc, no oak, clean and crisp. Michot’s side of the river may be less famous than his neighbor Sancerre, but he isn’t willing to concede it any advantage. His wines are terrific Sauvignon blancs, full of energy, focus, clean dry fruit, and beautiful tension.

Michot’s Pouilly-Fumé Vieilles Vignes 2023 has just arrived and it’s refreshing, unoaked, mouthfilling and utterly delicious. His old vine cuvée combines a ripe, sunny vintage with bursting tension underneath the gorgeous fruit. There’s lots of inexpensive Sauvignon Blanc around — most of it isn’t half this good.

The nose shows mango, grapefruit rind, and straw; the mouth shows ripe grapefruit, lime rind, and honey. The wine is at once mouthfilling and electric, with the persistence of richness and freshness found in finest Sancerre, but with a serious discount.

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Michot Pouilly-Fumé VV 2022
bottle price: $22

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