The 2022s from Burgundy continue to delight. It’s a terrific vintage in both colors – the reds are characterful and intense with tremendous freshness and lovely fruit; the whites are vibrant and delicious, clear and compelling representations of their terroir.
The world has by now discovered St-Aubin, the once secret town tucked away up a valley between Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet. But if it’s less hidden than it once was, its wines are better than ever. At the western edge of the appellation lies a plot named “Murgers des Dents de Chiens.” Perched just up the hill from Montrachet itself, this St. Aubin premier cru is a remarkable value.
Gerard Thomas’s 2022 St-Aubin from this special vineyard has shed its youthful edge and today is vibrant and beautiful. It shows terrific concentration, with ripe lemon fruit blending perfectly into a chiseled mineral core. On the palate it’s crackling and savory, with a long and tense finish that’s vibrant and lithe. Jancis Robinson’s reviewer found it “rich, and inviting…lots of spice on the palate,” concluding “fresh, flavorful and full of fruit.”
____________________________
Thomas St-Aubin 1er “Murgers” 2022
bottle price: $55
