Frosts are often the first challenge of a vigneron’s year. Unusually warm springs mean budbreak arrives earlier, and the vines now at risk for overnight frosts for months. Particularly in Chablis, an hour north of the rest of Burgundy, crop loss from frost damage has become a way of life.
Cyril Gautheron has become a master of navigating this new climate. Like many winemakers he delays pruning to slow the arrival of the buds, and harvests just at the point of maturity (even a day before), to preserve freshness and acidity. His results speak for themselves; Jasper Morris calls him “a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons.”
Cyril’s excellent 2023s will arrive in June, but we’re well stocked on his terrific 2022s. These days we’re particularly enjoying his “Vaillons,” a premier cru cuvée from old-vines in left-bank plot. This is delicious, chiseled, elegant Chablis, bursting with minerals oyster shells and lemon zest. The old vines and terroir give it impressive length and density, all finely concentrated into an electric, vibrant white Burgundy of the highest order.
____________________________
Gautheron Chablis 1er “Vaillons” 2022
bottle price: $42
