Sofie Bohrmann is a cheerful, dynamic winemaker in Meursault. Her Burgundies are refined and terrific – she harvests early and uses barrels made from very old Austrian oak, a very fine-grained wood that allows for a slow, luxurious elevage. The resulting wines are floral and classy, showing generous textures framed with careful poise.
And her 2023s are simply irresistible. A hot, dry vintage with perfectly timed rain produced exceptional white Burgundies and plenty of them. Her everyday Bourgogne blanc is rich and easygoing; her St-Romain is an overperforming gem. Her St-Aubin 1er En Remilly is compact, sophisticated and powerful. But (as usual) her Puligny-Montrachet “Grands Champs” is our favorite white.
Most Burgundy aficionados consider Puligny the pinnacle of white Burgundy – a perfect blend of fruit and stone and wood. Sofie’s “Les Grands Champs” is unmistakable Puligny, and is certainly her most elegant wine. Like all good Puligny it will continue to improve for years; but the 2023 is precocious for the appellation, and already a masterpiece. Look for white flowers, lime zest, and stones on a very long, classy finish.
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Bohrmann Puligny-Montrachet “Grands Champs” 2023
bottle price: $99
