The Domaine Guillemot Michel has been a benchmark source for biodynamic white Burgundy from the Maconnais. For years they made just a single wine: an iconic Viré-Clessé from Quintaine. And the wine deserves every bit of its extensive praise. “Honeyed, concentrated wines that are imbued with remarkable concentration and energy, and they develop beautifully in the cellar,” writes William Kelley, “One of the best producers in the Maconnais.”
A few years ago the domaine’s latest generation began experimenting with separate cuvées, and we’ll admit we were skeptical at first. But we should have known better – the founder’s daughter and son in law have taken the reins and maintained the same impeccable quality, adding new ideas and techniques. Our favorite of these new cuvées is “Retour a la Terre.”
The grapes for this cuvée come from a parcel situated on clay soils, and the elevage is 100% in Amphoras — clay vessels — hence the name “Return to the Earth.” Amphoras deliver micro-oxygenation at about the same rate as Burgundy-size barrels, but without oak flavors, and so this wine is a little more generous and longer on the finish. Jasper Morris found “a cashmere texture” to the wine, and we agree this is a stunning, innovative white Burgundy of the highest degree.
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Guillemot-Michel Viré Clessé
“Retour à la Terre” 2023
bottle price: $65
