By Burgundy standards, Nuits-St-Georges is an enormous appellation, stretching nearly four miles end to end. The soil makeup varies widely across the town, and Nuits can best be thought of as three distinct districts: north, middle and south. The northern part that borders Vosne is the most elegant, the middle the boldest and most powerful, and the southern the most mineral.
Today’s cuvée comes from the middle, not far from the famous “Les St-Georges” vineyard from which the town borrows its name. Pierre Gros’s “les Chaliots” vineyard produces a classic expression of Nuits: deep intensity, muscular texture, deep dark fruit. The trick in Nuits-St-Georges (particularly the middle sector) is to balance the readily available tannin with enough fruit and finesse.
Gros’s 2023 NSG Chaliots walks this balance to perfection, with an irresistible combination of rugged density and vibrant lift. The nose is deep and lovely, with plums, blackberries, toast and spice. The mouth is rich and concentrated, with deep color and even deeper flavor. This bold, dynamic wine has a bright future, but as with most 2023s is already a tasty glass. Serve with sirloin tips from the grill.
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Michel Gros Nuits-St-Georges “Chaliots” 2023
bottle price: $88
