At a time when White Burgundy from the Côte d’Or is both pricier and harder to come by, the Maconnais is a refuge for those seeking top quality wine at a reasonable price. We discovered the Domaine Pierre Vessigaud after reading fulsome praise from William Kelley, and the wines continue to show beautifully, both at the regional level and in Pouilly-Fuissé. Kelley wrote: “Succulent but serious, any bottle bearing Vessigaud’s name is worth seeking out.”
Vessigaud’s Macon-Fuissé “Les Taches” comes from clay-limestone soils right next to the Pouilly-Fuissé border, and the proximity to fancier terroir is clear. The elevage is all in 500 liter barrels for 12 months, followed by six months en cuve. We’ve come to appreciate Vessigaud as a master of oaking: like a chef adding salt to a dish, it provides support for the rest of the flavors without ever once becoming an obvious flavor itself.
The 2024 Macon-Fuissé “Les Taches” is terrific, far overperforming its humble appellation. It is elegant, with particularly nice length for its level. The nose is gorgeous and floral; the mouth is rich and smooth with perfectly balanced acidity. It’s a dead ringer for a Pouilly-Fuissé, and one any white Burgundy lover will want in the cellar.
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Vessigaud Macon-Fuissé “Les Taches” 2024
bottle price: $32
