We discovered Poggerino back in 2004, when a well-known Chianti producer invited us to visit if we wanted to meet a winemaker with a fanatical devotion to quality. Poggerino’s vineyards lie in one of the coolest parts of Chianti Classico, and the combination of hot days and cold nights makes for very for slow ripening. This is a virtue: it allows the skins to achieve phenolic maturity (driven by sunlight, not heat) by the time the interior of the grape is ready for harvest. The resultant ripe tannins allow Poggerino to avoid Sangiovese’s natural tendency to raspy harshness in its youth.
Piero Lanza’s quest for excellence yields wines of great elegance. Il Labirinto, from young vines that could be labeled Chianti Classico, is made with no oak. The Chianti Classico is raised in larger barrels and with relatively little new oak; its fruit shows cherries and blackcurrants. From the Bugialla vineyard comes the superb Chianti Classico Riserva, as intense and ageworthy example of Chianti Classico Riserva as you will ever see.
As good as are the wines, some would argue that Poggerino’s Tuscan Olive Oil is its best product. We time our imports from Poggerino around its bottling to achieve maximum freshness. It is usually available in 750ml bottles and 500 ml tins.
