Author: Thomas Wilcox

Many famous chateaux in Bordeaux produce a “second wine,” a bottling of juice from younger vines or less favored corners of the vineyard. The quality of this cuvée varies greatly depending on chateau and vintage, but at its best it can be an early maturing wine with excellent pricing, and a careful consumer can find tremendous value.

One of our favorites recent second wine discoveries is the Murmure du Larcis Ducasse, a St-Emilion Grand Cru. Chateau Larcis Ducasse is a well known estate whose flagship label “flirts with perfection” in good vintages (Jeb Dunnuck). We’ve just acquired some of the second wine from 2018, and it’s a real find. If you’re in need of a serious, mature, sub-$60 Bordeaux, look no further.

James Suckling gave the 2018 Murmure a 95, just two points behind the flagship label that year, finding it “elegant…juicy, and fleshy texture…savory…such balance.” This wine stole the show at our tasting in January, and we’re delighted it’s finally arrived. Among a crowded field of other St-Emilions, this showed a beautiful floral nose with violets and plum, and lush, very fresh fruit. The mouth is sturdy and rich, and every tannin is coated in gorgeous ripe fruit. Drink with steak.

____________________________

Murmure du Larcis Ducasse
St-Emilion Grand Cru 2018
bottle price: $52

Add to Cart

 

Vincent Boyer now works with his sister Sylvie, and together they share the viticulture (mostly her) and winemaking (mostly him). They’ve nearly completed their conversion to organic farming, and their always excellent wines have become even better in recent years. They raised prices after their catastrophic 2021 vintage where they lost 90% in some plots from frost, but actually lowered them this year given the healthier crop.

The Boyers use an extended two-year elevage in oak barrels and then concrete eggs, and the resulting wines are sleek and full, steering well clear of the traps of overoaking and heaviness. Boyer’s Bourgogne Côte d’Or comes from vines near his hometown of Meursault, and even this humble cuvée shows a glimmer of that golden Meursault character.

The resulting wine is the best value Bourgogne blanc in our cellar – and with this year’s pricing it might be the best value too. Burghound found the nose “elegant” and “exuberantly fresh,” with “delicious and equally vibrant flavors” in the mouth. The nose opens with citrus and white flowers, and the mouth is full of concentrated fruit and tension. An exceptionally successful white Burgundy, and at the price, an excellent value.

____________________________

Boyer-Martenot Bourgogne Côte d’Or 2022
bottle price: $38

Add to Cart

 

Organic viticulture is the future of winemaking — the majority of our winemakers are organic or in conversion. But at some domaines, it’s also the past. The Domaine du Joncuas in Gigondas turned 100 years old a few years ago, and they’ve practiced organic winemaking, as they put it, “depuis toujours” (“since forever”). Writer Jon Bonné cites them as a benchmark producer for the region, and labels them “essential defenders of grenache’s good name.”

Joncuas wines prove at least one thing about organic winemaking: it works. Sisters Dany and Carole Chastan are third generation vigneronnes practicing old-school winemaking — whole clusters, limited sulfur, all wild yeasts. They use no new oak, and neither fine nor filter. Their wines are juicy and deep and very expressive, with gorgeous fruit.

Their 2019 Gigondas would beat the socks off many a Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Grown from ancient Grenache vines and crafted with technology that their grandfather who founded the domaine would recognize, this is old-school winemaking at its best. Vinous’s Josh Raynolds awarded 92 points, finding “sweet raspberry and bitter cherry…excellent clarity…silky texture…energetic, long, sappy finish.”

As autumn finally arrives, this is rich, cozy, profound wine that’s not to be missed.

____________________________

Joncuas Gigondas 2019
bottle price: $42

Add to Cart

 

No winemaker we work with has captured more readers’ attention in the last few years than Pierre Vessigaud. We get emails with comments like “the wines are so alive,” and “as good as Meursault but half the price.” We’re not surprised – we find ourselves reaching for Vessigaud’s wines more often every month.

Pierre and his wife and son are committed biodynamic vignerons whose wines are Demeter certified, the highest organic classification. In the bottle this translates to superb purity and clarity, with careful elevage and excellent balance. This extends all the way from top – their superb Premier Cru Pouilly-Fuissé – to bottom – today’s humble Macon-Solutre-Pouilly.

The Macon Solutre-Pouilly 2023 comes from a plot in Pouilly, along the line between the hamlets of Pouilly and Fuissé. The Vessigauds vinify and raise it in large oak foudres for eleven months, where micro-oxygenation develops density and flavor rather than any apparent oak. It’s classic unoaked Maconnais white, imbued with the sunny character of south of Burgundy and a pulsing, vibrant energy that’s impossible to resist.

____________________________

Vessigaud Macon-Solutré-Pouilly 2023
bottle price: $28

Add to Cart

 

Many of the winemakers we work with farm on a small scale, particularly in Burgundy. But strictly by the numbers, our smallest winemaker might be Dumien-Serrette in Cornas. Located at the southern end of the Northern Rhône Valley, Cornas is home to just 50 winemakers across 145 hectares (compare to 3000+ in Chateauneuf-du-Pape).

Cornas is pure Syrah like the rest of the Northern Rhône, but the feel is of something sunnier from further South. Today fifth generation winemaker Nicolas Serrette farms a miniscule 1.8 hectares (4 acres) in Cornas. Simon Field MW of Berry Brothers writes of the Dumien-Serrette wines’ “granitic splendor” and “beguiling floral elegance which sets them apart.”

Their primary cuvée is called “Patou,” made from 80+ year old syrah vines – and that’s their “young vine” bottling. The 2023 is terrific, and follows a similar pattern to the 2023 red Burgundies: it bears a strong resemblance to the 2022s, but with more lift and energy. Once upon a time a tasting of young Cornas would be considered work, and you might have to brush your teeth afterwards – but not today.

Vinous’s reviewer found it “gorgeous” with “floral nuance” and “spot-on balance.” It’s sleek, dense, silky Syrah with a gorgeous sweet dark fruited nose and a refined, detailed palate. Serrette used 100% whole clusters this year, and the delicate tannin behind the perfectly ripe fruit is magnificent.

____________________________

Dumien-Serrette Cornas “Patou” 2023
bottle price: $58

Add to Cart

 

If Côte d’Or Pinot Noir is a sophisticated, well-dressed gentleman with a long resume, Gamay from Beaujolais is a free-spirited artist: unruly, unpredictable, and often way more fun. Nearly all reds from Burgundy are unblended – all classy Pinot, or all untamed Gamay.

But in rare cases – around one percent – winemakers will blend these two grapes into a fascinating and delicious cuvée, usually bottled under the appellation Coteaux-Bourguignons. The resulting wine is a charming blend of Burgundian polish and Beaujolais joie-de-vivre. Our friends the Amiot family in Morey-St-Denis make such a cuvée, and in 2023 it’s flat out delicious.

Grown from a single plot of 60 year old vines of both varietals in Morey-St-Denis, for decades the family reserved this cuvée all to themselves. The nose shows delicate red fruited Pinot Noir (think wild cherries and roses), but in the mouth the Gamay appears, adding dark muscly texture to the delicate Pinot fruit.

This won’t win any awards for longevity or detail, but it’s a traditional and delightful blend of two of Burgundy’s diverse characters.

____________________________

Amiot Coteaux-Bourguignons 2023
bottle price: $29

Add to Cart

 

Regular readers will know Gautier Desvignes, the humble, friendly, thirtysomething winemaker who has transformed his modest family domaine into a top name in the region. William Kelley writes that Desvignes is “one of the leading lights in the Côte Chalonnaise,” and we wholeheartedly agree.

Gautier’s 2022s show a talented winemaker firing on all cylinders. He has refined his cellar technique considerably, using gentler extractions, and focused his barrel work through exhaustive (some might say obsessive) experimentation and tasting. The resulting wines easily rival reds from the Côte d’Or in detail and complexity, and simply blow them away on price.

Gautier’s Givry 1er cru “Grand Berge” is from vines just in back of the domaine, and is the friendliest of the Desvignes premier crus. The 2022 is lovely and welcoming – dark and floral with a dose of toast and a rich, jammy complexion. The vintage provides ample concentration but no heat. Look for raspberry and violets, and a clean medium weight finish. Serve this with a mushroom risotto.

____________________________

Desvignes Givry 1er “Grand Berge” 2022
bottle price: $42

Add to Cart

 

We have worked with the Vessigaud family for just a few vintages, but there’s no producer we’re more excited to have in our portfolio. Vessigaud’s Demeter certified (the highest Biodynamic level) winemaking is clear, consistent and outstanding. White Burgundies from the Maconnais are gaining attention for their quality and value these days – all you need to understand why is a glass of Pouilly-Fuissé from Vessigaud. As William Kelley writes, “succulent but serious, any bottle bearing Vessigaud’s label is worth seeking out.”

The Pouilly-Fuissé “Vieilles Vignes” 2023 is the principal cuvée of the domaine, made from 20 small parcels scattered across the Fuissé part of the appellation. The vines range from 40 to 70 years old, face all four points of the compass, and grow in a variety of marl, clay and limestone soils. Elevage for this cuvée is 80% in larger, older, oak barrels, and 20% in concrete vats, all for 18 months. The result is a wine of excellent balance and complexity. A series of very hot days at the end of the 2023 growing season concentrated the grapes, both in freshness and ripeness, making this a big, well balanced Pouilly-Fuissé.

This is simply outstanding white Burgundy – in class with village Meursault or Chassagne, at half the price. If you’re a white wine fan who has yet to investigate what’s going on in the Maconnais these days, you owe it to yourself to have a look. And if you’re as familiar and excited about it as we are, this is as good a value as it gets.

____________________________

Vessigaud Pouilly-Fuissé VV 2023
bottle price: $42

Add to Cart

 

FREE EAST COAST SHIPPING ON ANY 12 BOTTLES

The Boursot family has grown grapes in Chambolle-Musigny since 1550. With a viticultural history older than most countries, the Boursots know their terroir inside and out. The current generation, brothers Romaric and Romault Boursot, are only the second to bottle their own wine instead of selling to a local negociant.

Jasper Morris MW writes that “the winemaking has been sharpened up by the current generation;” Neal Martin of Vinous finds the wines “superb” and writes of “a promising future.” Each visit we find wines that have gained class, polish, and real depth. Their 2021s, from a cooler, less intense vintage, are already drinking beautifully.

Boursot’s 2021 Chambolle-Musigny Nazoires is terrific. The nose is a blend of dark rugged woodsiness and silky Chambolle charm. It’s deep and pretty with classic Boursot intensity, softened by elegant terroir and a bit of time in amphora. Look for cassis, violets, and wild raspberries in the nose, with cherries, leather, and stones in the mouth.

____________________________

Boursot Chambolle-Musigny 2021
bottle price: $99

Add to Cart

 

FREE EAST COAST SHIPPING ON ANY 12 BOTTLES

Credit for the discovery of sparkling wine is a matter of dispute. The monks of Limoux in the South of France claim 1531 as the date of genesis; the Champenois, with their stories of widows and Benedictine monks, have certainly won the publicity war; and even the Brits, who invented glass thick enough to contain the pressure, stake a claim.

But whomever you credit with its creation or taming, the world has become quite fond of bubbles over the past few centuries. We stock Champagnes from four Grower producers, but our best value bubbles are the crémants from Maison Picamelot. William Kelley, Wine Advocate editor in chief and former Champagne reviewer, writes that “Picamelot produces some of the best sparkling wines in Burgundy,” calling them “elegant,” “excellent,” and “superb.”

Picamelot’s best value cuvée is their “Les Terroirs” Brut NV. This cuvée combines three grapes from three corners of Burgundy — Pinot Noir from the Côte de Nuits, Chardonnay from the Côte de Beaune, and Aligoté from the Côte Chalonnaise. After its first fermentation, the wine ages on its lees for over a year, gaining complexity and richness. The result is a delicious wine that’s as honest a representation of Burgundy as any still wine.

In the glass (we suggest skipping the flute), “les Terroirs” is bright and lively, with nice dryness and pleasant, delicate mouthfeel — an extraordinarily versatile food-pairing win, and a bargain.

____________________________

Picamelot Crémant “Terroirs” NV
bottle price: $28

Add to Cart

 

Last year we introduced Nicolas Ragot’s terrific Givrys to our portfolio, and they’ve been a real hit. Ragot is a thoughtful winemaker with a real innovative streak – he’s constantly refining his techniques, experimenting with amphoras, whole clusters, and even lighter weight bottles. He’s part of an exciting wave of winemakers pushing the limits on what’s possible from once humble appellations in the Côte Chalonnaise.

Ragot’s best wine is his Givry 1er cru Clos Jus, from perhaps the best known vineyard in Givry. The soil here has excellent drainage and unusually high iron oxide content. The resulting wines show a lovely balance of charming aromatics and refined mouthfeels. Ragot’s 2023 Clos Jus is terrific – 85% raised in barrel (40% new) and the rest in amphora, with 25% whole cluster. This recipe makes for a serious red Burgundy, and the wine has the presence and texture of a village-level Gevrey-Chambertin.

The nose is dark and sappy with impressively complex layers of spice, blackberry, cherry and stones. The mouth is rich and dense but with exceptional tension and freshness – it’s a dynamic wine in a way that much sub-$50 red Burgundy is not. Neal Martin of Vinous gave it 91 points, finding a “bouquet of crushed strawberry, cranberry and lightly pressed flower.” In the mouth he noted “fine tannins, well balanced and refined,” concluding “this is another delicious Givry from Nicolas Ragot.”

____________________________

Ragot Givry 1er “Clos Jus” 2023
bottle price: $49

Add to Cart

 

FREE EAST COAST SHIPPING ON ANY 12 BOTTLES

Arnaud Baillot is a bit of an anomaly in Burgundy – he has no family connection to wine or the region, and has only been making wine for six years. His wife Laure is of a storied Burgundian family (Hudelot-Noëllat), but they have short winemaking experience and few critical reviews. Having tasted several vintages now, however, we’re more certain of our initial impressions: Baillot is a talented, thoughtful winemaker with excellent instincts and impressive resources.

His style is understated and elegant; low oak, plenty of stems, impeccable balance and detail. Over the weekend we opened this 2022 Volnay 1er “Mitans” at the Depot during Tomatofest, and it stopped people in their tracks. Writing about the 2023 Mitans (see November Futures this year), Neal Martin in Vinous writes “this is not a million miles away from d’Angerville in style, so yeah, it’s that good.” New though he is, we’re pretty bullish on Baillot.

Volnay’s high limestone content delivers wines of finesse and grace, and perfectly fits Baillot’s style. The 2022 Mitans is compact and full of finely channel fruit, with beautiful spice elements in the nose (cinnamon, clove) alongside violets and cassis. As with all of Baillot’s wines, the oak is minimal and perfectly integrated. This will age beautifully, but was a real treat after a few hours open on Saturday.

____________________________

Baillot Volnay 1er “Mitans” 2022
bottle price: $135

Add to Cart

 

We thought it might not be possible for Cyril Gautheron to follow his extraordinary 2022s with anything similar – but his 2023s are every bit as good, and in some cases even better. He remains a steadfast defender of classical Chablis, even amid the headwinds of market tastes and a warming climate.

Gautheron’s Chablis premier cru “Vaucoupin” vineyard has always been among our favorites – so complete and balanced is the expression from the soil that Cyril ages it entirely in stainless steel, a rarity for a Chablis Premier Cru these days. The 2023 is a triumph of restraint – beautiful, understated wine that’s friendly and pairs with just about anything.

The mouthfeel is fine and delicate, and the balance is particularly good, with freshness tied into a palate that nonetheless feels round and supple. In the nose, floral notes of acacia join the clean lemon fruit. Jasper Morris found “plenty of tension on the palate, discreet in the middle, a little richer at the finish. . . . Classy yet of medium body.” This is prototypical Chablis, and it wants for nothing.

____________________________

Gautheron Chablis 1er “Vaucoupin” 2023
bottle price: $48

Add to Cart

 

The red wines of the Loire Valley always play second fiddle to the region’s whites. But it’s a mistake to ignore them – they’re well balanced, low-alcohol, usually organic, and often exceptional values. Our favorites these days are the unblended, unoaked Cabernet Francs from the central Loire.

Celine and Didier Sanzay are fifth generation growers in Saumur-Champigny in the central Loire Valley. They craft fresh, pure Cabernet Franc in the modern Loire style — small batch, organic, wild yeasts, no fining or filtering. Their wines are delicious, affordable, and excellent for food pairing.

Their 2023 Saumur-Champigny is exactly what you want Loire Cab Franc to be: pure, joyful, unoaked, and fresh. Clean, juicy fruit bursts from the glass on the nose — think wild cherries and graphite. The mouth is fresh, fruit forward, inky, and intense, with a bold and vibrant attack and a quick clean finish. A perfect autumn red – drink this until the Beaujolais arrives next month.

____________________________

Sanzay Saumur-Champigny 2023
bottle price:  $22

Add to Cart

 

Thomas Morey makes the most precise, elegant, understated white Burgundies in our cellar. His style is one of restraint and precision. We think of them as “minimalist” white wines — what’s not there (oak, butter, heaviness) is as important as what is there.

Morey’s 2023 village-level Chassagne-Montrachet is exquisite. It’s a blend from nine parcels across the appellation, including two declassified premier crus. The wine is subtle, elegant and extremely refined – not a hair out of place. Look for golden fruits and delicate citrus tension, ripe lemons with maybe a hint of orange. It pairs beautifully with subtle dishes like sole meuniere or butter-poached scallops.

Master of Wine Jasper Morris writes of this wine: “pleasingly ripe aromatics, white fruit through the middle and an engaging long finish, staying lively all the way through – helped by the good yields from the old vines.” The only thing wrong with this wine is its scarcity.

____________________________

Thomas Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 2023
bottle price: $95

Add to Cart