Author: Thomas Wilcox

Last year we introduced Nicolas Ragot’s terrific Givrys to our portfolio, and they’ve been a real hit. Ragot is a thoughtful winemaker with a real innovative streak – he’s constantly refining his techniques, experimenting with amphoras, whole clusters, and even lighter weight bottles. He’s part of an exciting wave of winemakers pushing the limits on what’s possible from once humble appellations in the Côte Chalonnaise.

Ragot’s best wine is his Givry 1er cru Clos Jus, from perhaps the best known vineyard in Givry. The soil here has excellent drainage and unusually high iron oxide content. The resulting wines show a lovely balance of charming aromatics and refined mouthfeels. Ragot’s 2023 Clos Jus is terrific – 85% raised in barrel (40% new) and the rest in amphora, with 25% whole cluster. This recipe makes for a serious red Burgundy, and the wine has the presence and texture of a village-level Gevrey-Chambertin.

The nose is dark and sappy with impressively complex layers of spice, blackberry, cherry and stones. The mouth is rich and dense but with exceptional tension and freshness – it’s a dynamic wine in a way that much sub-$50 red Burgundy is not. Neal Martin of Vinous gave it 91 points, finding a “bouquet of crushed strawberry, cranberry and lightly pressed flower.” In the mouth he noted “fine tannins, well balanced and refined,” concluding “this is another delicious Givry from Nicolas Ragot.”

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Ragot Givry 1er “Clos Jus” 2023
bottle price: $49

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The 2022 red Burgundies arrived about a year ago, and they’ve quickly become a reader favorite vintage. From the warmest, driest year in recent memory, they are nonetheless vibrant and beautifully balanced, sporting low alcohol and classic Burgundian finesse. It’s a magnificent vintage, and one we expect to enjoy for many years to come.

One particular success are the reds of Roger Belland, whose cuvées are universally delicious, and always well priced. His Santenay 1er cru “Gravières” 2022 is a triumph – loads of dark cassis and violet fruit packed into a solid and inky core of fruit and minerals. And all wrapped up in a neat, classy, 13% alc. package.

Burghound loved this wine, awarding it both “Outstanding” and “Top Value” designations. He found “fine volume and richness,” with “an opulent mid-palate mouthfeel,” calling the finish “firm and serious.” It’s juicy modern red Burgundy, but with perfect ripeness and an old-school texture. We enjoyed this recently with grilled chicken, and recommend the match.

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Belland Santenay 1er “Gravières” 2022
bottle price: $48

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We have worked with the Vessigaud family for just a few vintages, but there’s no producer we’re more excited to have in our portfolio. Vessigaud’s Demeter certified (the highest Biodynamic level) winemaking is clear, consistent and outstanding. White Burgundies from the Maconnais are gaining attention for their quality and value these days – all you need to understand why is a glass of Pouilly-Fuissé from Vessigaud. As William Kelley writes, “succulent but serious, any bottle bearing Vessigaud’s label is worth seeking out.”

The Pouilly-Fuissé “Vieilles Vignes” 2023 is the principal cuvée of the domaine, made from 20 small parcels scattered across the Fuissé part of the appellation. The vines range from 40 to 70 years old, face all four points of the compass, and grow in a variety of marl, clay and limestone soils. Elevage for this cuvée is 80% in larger, older, oak barrels, and 20% in concrete vats, all for 18 months. The result is a wine of excellent balance and complexity. A series of very hot days at the end of the 2023 growing season concentrated the grapes, both in freshness and ripeness, making this a big, well balanced Pouilly-Fuissé.

This is simply outstanding white Burgundy – in class with village Meursault or Chassagne, at half the price. If you’re a white wine fan who has yet to investigate what’s going on in the Maconnais these days, you owe it to yourself to have a look. And if you’re as familiar and excited about it as we are, this is as good a value as it gets.

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Vessigaud Pouilly-Fuissé VV 2023
bottle price: $42

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The Viré-Clessé from Forces Telluriques has become one of the most popular white Burgundies in our portfolio – and not for lack of competition. It’s magnificent, unoaked, biodynamic Chardonnay, and while you won’t find the Forces Telluriques label on any CellarTracker accounts (except Ansonia customers), but the wine in the bottle is from an iconic Mâconnais source with an exclusive importer for the primary label.

The family who creates this wine are true believers in the theory of biodynamics — minimal vineyard intervention in the vines, meticulous and hands-off winemaking. William Kelley calls them “one of the best producers in the Mâconnais “ producing “ honeyed, concentrated wines that are imbued with remarkable concentration and energy.”

The 2021 has stood out as uniquely delicious recently. Amid a collection of warm, dry vintages (2018, 2020, 2022) the 2021 vintage brought cooler and wetter weather, resulting in more botrytis than usual in the vines. This “noble rot,” generally considered a malady in Côte d’Or white Burgundies, is traditionally embraced in the Maconnais. The resulting wine is perfectly dry, but with exquisite, delightful notes of botrytis alongside the classical yellow fruit.

The 2021 Forces Telluriques is a triumph. The domaine harvested slowly, over about 15 days, achieving 13.2% naturally – a real feat in a cool vintage. The resulting wine is superb, showing ripeness without weight, a wine that is lively and alive. The Wine Advocate’s William Kelley gave 93 points, finding “Aromas of clear honey, white flowers, beeswax and sweet spices” calling it “a suave and vibrant wine that’s satiny, bright and fine-boned, concluding with a bright, gently exotic finish.”

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Forces Telluriques Viré-Clessé 2021
bottle price: $45

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Regular readers will know Gautier Desvignes, the humble, friendly, thirtysomething winemaker who has transformed his modest family domaine into a top name in the region. William Kelley writes that Desvignes is “one of the leading lights in the Côte Chalonnaise,” and we wholeheartedly agree.

Gautier’s 2022s show a talented winemaker firing on all cylinders. He has refined his cellar technique considerably, using gentler extractions, and focused his barrel work through exhaustive (some might say obsessive) experimentation and tasting. The resulting wines easily rival reds from the Côte d’Or in detail and complexity, and simply blow them away on price.

Gautier’s Givry 1er cru “Grand Berge” is from vines just in back of the domaine, and is the friendliest of the Desvignes premier crus. The 2022 is lovely and welcoming – dark and floral with a dose of toast and a rich, jammy complexion. The vintage provides ample concentration but no heat. Look for raspberry and violets, and a clean medium weight finish. Serve this with a mushroom risotto.

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Desvignes Givry 1er “Grand Berge” 2022
bottle price: $42

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Master of Wine Jasper Morris writes that “Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons.” Much Chablis has gotten riper and rounder in the last decade, but for something steely, stony and crisp, we always reach for Gautheron.

Cyril farms a handful of plots at the premier cru level, scattered across the appellation. His vines in the premier cru “Fourneaux” are out the window of his domaine, up a side valley near his native Fleys. The plot is south facing with lots of sun, but high in elevation and steep, providing much-needed air flow and drainage. The resulting wine is dynamic and delicious, and wants for nothing.

The 2022 is outstanding. Gautheron decided it needed no oak, and he’s right. The nose is very expressive – orchard fruits, lemon peel, and stones. In the mouth a mineral punch and notes of saline mix in with the smooth yellow fruit, making for a persistent palate and a long finish. Bill Nanson called it “a fabulous wine,” and we think the balance and tension are perfect.

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Gautheron Chablis 1er “Fourneaux” 2022
bottle price: $42

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Wine lovers who follow the great white Burgundies of the Côte de Beaune have long looked to the side valleys – one coming in between Chassagne and Puligny, and another between Meursault and Volnay – for top quality at good prices. Sofie Borhmann has several plots up both valleys, and they’re responsible for some of her best value wines.

The word is out about the first valley (St-Aubin), and while the wines here have never been better (and indeed Sofie’s are exceptional), the pricing discount has softened a bit. But the other valley (St-Romain) still holds some hidden potential, and we’re delighted to suggest Bohrmann’s 2022 St-Romain today.

St-Romain sits about 400-500 feet higher in elevation than Borhmann’s hometown of Meursault, a real advantage in Burgundy’s new hot dry summer climate. Sofie’s 2022 St-Romain is an exquisite combination of ripeness and zip – less creamy and soft than St-Aubin, but with Sofie’s signature golden polish. With just a splash of oak and a delicate bouquet of white flowers, acacia and almonds, this has to be among the best sub-$50 Burgundies around.

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Bohrmann St-Romain “Clos Sous le Chateau” 2022
bottle price: $49

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Sancerre remains among the world’s best known white wines. Sauvignon blanc, a naturally high acid grape, is well positioned to weather today’s hot summers without losing pep and energy. Our source here is the Domaine de la Garenne, an old family domaine of the highest quality, practicing organic viticulture and on track for EU certification this year.

Garenne’s cuvées aren’t showy or innovative – they’re honest, punchy, simply delicious Sancerre. We import four cuvées from them in stock, but our best seller has always been “Bouffants.” This unoaked sauvignon blanc comes from 40+ year old vines in a limestone-rich plot with excellent drainage. It’s a perfectly located single vineyard cuvée, and from one of the best plots in the appellation.

The 2023 is as good as ever. There’s no oak, and the old vines contribute loads of dry concentration cut by a chiseled, stony backbone. The nose shows grapefruit zest and herbal honey, and the mouth bursts with white flowers, lime, and stone. Serve this with fish from the grill, or a hearty shrimp pasta with herbs and parm.

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Garenne Sancerre “Bouffants” 2023
bottle price: $34

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Stop us if you’ve heard this before: another year, another flat out delicious wine from Poggerino – and still a bargain. Italian wine represents a tiny corner of our portfolio, but Piero Lanza’s impeccably balanced wines are some of the most popular in our store. They drink well young, age beautifully, and provide exceptional value.

The 2022 growing season in northern Italy was hot and dry just like Burgundy. But Sangiovese, a native of sunny Tuscany, is better equipped than Pinot Noir to handle drought, and Poggerino’s 2022 Chianti Classico is deep and rich without ever losing its balance.

Antonio Galloni of Vinous calls it “plush, open-knit” and “ rich,” with “intense dark red fruit,” writing “another terrific set of wines from Piero Lanza at Poggerino.” It’s finally in stock and simply delicious, bursting with perfectly ripe fruit and loads of dry extract. The sunny dry vintage delivered more stuffing than usual, and this is smooth, broad, and impressive – there’s more wine here than usual.

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Poggerino Chianti Classico 2022
bottle price: $28

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The wines of Margaux are some of the most celebrated in Bordeaux, admired for their unique blend of finesse and power. The soils are light and thin, full of gravel, sand and limestone, and the resulting wines combine Left-Bank muscle with an exquisite finesse and perfume.

Our latest arrival from Margaux is the Baron de Brane, the second wine of the prestigious second-growth estate Brane-Cantenac. The 2018 is simply beautiful, landing just in time for summer grilling season. This is 60% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Carménère.

Jeb Dunnuck writes “Another beautiful second wine…a rounded, sexy profile as well as terrific notes of blackcurrants, spice box, and earth, with hints of graphite.” The nose high toned silky character of classic Margaux that’s somehow both elegant and muscular. The mouth is no slouch though, with an extremely well balanced mouthfeel showing graphite, earth, cassis and an old-school weight and shape. Serve with something from the grill.

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Baron de Brane Margaux 2018
bottle price: $55

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There are winners and losers from the warming trend in France. Weather hazards aside, the Loire Valley and much of Burgundy have come out more or less ahead. In the south, the extremes have been less friendly. It’s no longer uncommon to find wines at nearly 16% alcohol – Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre soak up whatever sun they’re given, and there’s only so much winemakers can do to counter temperatures over 100F.

All of this makes Nicolas Hanei’s wines from his tiny Domaine Malmont that much more exciting. Grown high in the hills above Séguret in the Southern Rhône, the Malmont grenache and syrah vines struggle though rock-laden nutrient-poor soils, slowing their maturation. The west-facing hillside at 1200 feet of elevation enjoys plentiful breezes throughout the growing season, keeping the grapes cool and healthy.

The resulting wines are almost an anomaly in the modern Rhône Valley: organic, delicious southern red blends with modest alcohol and fresh textures. Phey show the dark, dense rich fruit for which the region is known, but always with vibrant tension and lift. The 2022 is perfect – smooth blackberry-plum fruit with a mineral backbone and beautiful aromatic lift. If you miss the days when you could enjoy a southern Rhône red blend without having to take a nap afterwards, Malmont is the producer for you.

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Malmont Séguret 2022
bottle price: $32

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Many famous chateaux in Bordeaux produce a “second wine,” a bottling of juice from younger vines or less favored corners of the vineyard. The quality of this cuvée varies greatly depending on chateau and vintage, but at its best it can be an early maturing wine with excellent pricing, and a careful consumer can find tremendous value.

One of our favorites recent second wine discoveries is the Murmure du Larcis Ducasse, a St-Emilion Grand Cru. Chateau Larcis Ducasse is a well known estate whose flagship label “flirts with perfection” in good vintages (Jeb Dunnuck). We’ve just acquired some of the second wine from 2018, and it’s a real find. If you’re in need of a serious, mature, sub-$60 Bordeaux, look no further.

James Suckling gave the 2018 Murmure a 95, just two points behind the flagship label that year, finding it “elegant…juicy, and fleshy texture…savory…such balance.” This wine stole the show at our tasting in January, and we’re delighted it’s finally arrived. Among a crowded field of other St-Emilions, this showed a beautiful floral nose with violets and plum, and lush, very fresh fruit. The mouth is sturdy and rich, and every tannin is coated in gorgeous ripe fruit. Drink with steak.

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Murmure du Larcis Ducasse
St-Emilion Grand Cru 2018
bottle price: $52

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Alsace is a gorgeous winegrowing region – bucolic hillsides of vines surround fairytale villages on a sunny, east-facing ridge. Its wines can be similarly charming: expressive and delicate with beautiful fruit and vibrant textures. Our source here, the Domaine Charles Frey, is a family of committed biodynamic vingerons, producing wines of freshness and balance.

Frey’s Pinot Blanc “Eclectic” is one of our favorite summer sippers. It’s expressive and floral in the nose, with ripe orchard fruit, white spices and occasional exotic notes. You’d almost expect it to be sweet from the bouquet, but the mouth is dry and vibrant, with a hint of grapeskin bitterness alongside the melon-apple fruit.

There’s enough body to make it attractive all by itself, as an aperitif alongside a salty snack; but it’s also light enough to be an attractive partner to a dinner salad at the end of a muggy summer afternoon, whether on a roof deck, patio, or at an outdoor picnic. Grab a case of this in preparation for carefree summer enjoyment.

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Frey Pinot Blanc “Eclectic” 2023
bottle price: $22

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The 2022 red Burgundies are shaping up to be an extraordinary vintage. Expectations were high from the start: “beautiful and bountiful… very good wines and plenty of them” wrote Jasper Morris. William Kelley called them on release “succulent, suave and charming.” The last year of tasting them in our homes and at the warehouse has confirmed – this is an all around terrific vintage.

The fruit is modern and ripe, the result of a very hot, very dry growing season. And yet the wines show impeccable balance, with low alcohols and excellent freshness. Roger Belland’s 2022 reds are some of the best he’s made, coinciding with a shift in winemaking style: they’ve dialed back the oak, extended elevage, added whole clusters.

The Santenay 1er cru “Beauregard” 2022 is simply delicious, and just getting started. Tasting just after bottling, Burghound noted “fine richness…suave and succulent flavors…could be enjoyed young but has the stuffing to replay up to a decade of keeping.” Over the past 18 months in the bottle its youthful red fruits have mellowed a tad, and the palate has deepened and softened a beat or two. It’s still youthful and fresh, and we think it’s entering a terrific window.

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Belland Santenay 1er rouge “Beauregard” 2022
bottle price: $54

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Wine writer Lettie Teague once described Sancerre as a wine that delivers “pleasure not profundity.” We think this is an excellent description – sometimes a moment calls for a grand, majestic wine, but other times all you need is something crisp, refreshing, and reliable.

Domaine de la Garenne’s Sancerre is the most popular white wine in our store, and with good reason – it perfectly balances fruit, freshness, minerals and energy, all in an affordable package. It’s Sauvignon Blanc in its purest form. Grown on a combination of flint, clay, and limestone soils, it’s prototypical Sancerre – no oak, crisp minerality, lovely dry fruit. The 2024 is in our May Futures brochure, but in the meantime we’re delighted to have restocked on the 2023.

The 2023 summer was warm and humid, but meticulous growers like Garenne produced a classic vintage – low alcohol, crisp minerality, nicely integrated acidity. The nose has grapefruit and stones, alongside hints of white flowers and chalk. The mouth is easy, crisp, and delicious with dry fruit and a vibrant finish – everything you want in a weeknight Sancerre.

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Garenne Sancerre 2023
bottle price: $29

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