“Austrian wine” is almost synonymous with Grüner-Veltliner, and indeed 75% of the world’s Grüner is Austrian. The grape’s typical expression is uncomplicated and fresh, with low alcohol and blend of savory, herbal, and dry fruit notes. But at Salomon-Undhof, one of the country’s most historic and important domaines, the Salomon family expands what’s possible from the grape.
Vouvray is the king of the central Loire Valley. Made from pure Chenin Blanc, the wine is a chameleon, ranging from very sweet to bone dry and from sparkling to still. The most famous cuvées from top names will improve for decades, and are among the world’s longest lived wines.
Thomas Morey makes the most precise, elegant, understated white Burgundies in our cellar. His style is one of restraint and precision. We think of them as “minimalist” white wines — what’s not there (oak, butter, heaviness) is as important as what is there.
Sancerre is uncomplicated pleasure. A few top cuvées are meant to age and gain complexity, but most exist to provide simple, tasty, refreshment. Made from pure Sauvignon Blanc in soils laden with limestone and flint, Sancerre is usually unoaked and always crisp.
It’s hard to call anywhere in Burgundy’s Côte de Nuits “overlooked,” but Morey-Saint-Denis has always been a bit of an underdog. It’s a tiny place — about a mile from end to end, and home to fewer than 700 people — and sits between two larger and more famous neighbors. But it’s an impressive town in its own right, worthy of attention and respect.
Chablis is traditionally the purest, most stripped down form of Chardonnay from Burgundy. In recent decades winemakers have begun to experiment with oaking, particularly at the premier and grand cru levels – and the line between Chablis and Côte d’Or White Burgundies has blurred a bit. But today’s cuvée is unmistakable – classic, unoaked, old school premier cru Chablis.
Most franco-oenofiles know Cabernet Franc for the supporting role it plays in the great wines of Bordeaux. And indeed, there are more Cabernet Franc vines in Bordeaux than anywhere else in France. But it’s in the central Loire Valley, in towns like Chinon, Borgeuil, and Saumur-Champigny, where the grape shines in a solo role.
A tasty entry-level red Burgundy is among the most useful wines in the cellar. If the moment calls for quiet weeknight introspection, pour it into a large glass and watch it unwind over an hour – given time and space the best cuvées rival village-level wines for their complexity. If the setting is a boisterous family dinner replete with flavors and noise, serve it just a bit cool and watch the freshness and energy punch back against and impressive array of dishes.
In Burgundy, the concept of terroir is both essential and elusive. A host of other variables – winemaker, vintage, barrel type, bottle age, etc – often conspire to hide the power of terroir. The only way to experience this magical property fully in isolation, with all other variables held unchanged.
In a world of warmer summers and riper grapes, Chablis has become a bastion of freshness and balance. The satellite region of Burgundy lies 90 minutes north of the Côte d’Or, about half way to Paris — the climate is cooler and the terroir is stonier. The resulting wines are less ripe and more mineral than a typical Bourgogne blanc.
If there’s one wine in our portfolio that rivals white Burgundy for complexity and depth, it’s Riesling. The perennially underrated grape is capable of remarkably layered subtlety, and often comes with a surprisingly friendly pricetag. This week we opened a terrific bottle of biodynamic Grand Cru Riesling from Alsace, and we’re excited to suggest it today.
The Languedoc region of southern France produces oceans of cheap, uninteresting wine. (A few years ago the government even paid vignerons to pull up vines to limit overproduction.) But if you know where to look, the region is also the source for some excellent wines and terrific values.
A well-made entry-level Burgundy is the mark of a talented winemaker. Fancier cuvées will show off the power of terroir, and many wines from famous sites are deserving of their reputation and praise. But a Bourgogne-level wine is more a reflection of house-style and vintage.
Muscadet is a dry, lightweight, well-priced Loire Valley white. It’s grown near where the Loire River meets the Atlantic, and the wine matches the essence of the windswept coast and the shellfish of its shores. The juice of the Melon de Bourgogne grape is so pure and light that winemakers age the wine on its lees for several years to add flavor.
The soils of Burgundy vary widely based on location, but in general are some blend of argile (clay) and calcaire (limestone). The proportion of these two elements goes a long way in determining the character of wine made in each town. And in Chambolle-Musigny, it’s all about the calcaire.