Chablis is traditionally the purest, most stripped down form of Chardonnay from Burgundy. In recent decades winemakers have begun to experiment with oaking, particularly at the premier and grand cru levels – and the line between Chablis and Côte d’Or White Burgundies has blurred a bit. But today’s cuvée is unmistakable – classic, unoaked, old school premier cru Chablis.
Most franco-oenofiles know Cabernet Franc for the supporting role it plays in the great wines of Bordeaux. And indeed, there are more Cabernet Franc vines in Bordeaux than anywhere else in France. But it’s in the central Loire Valley, in towns like Chinon, Borgeuil, and Saumur-Champigny, where the grape shines in a solo role.
A tasty entry-level red Burgundy is among the most useful wines in the cellar. If the moment calls for quiet weeknight introspection, pour it into a large glass and watch it unwind over an hour – given time and space the best cuvées rival village-level wines for their complexity. If the setting is a boisterous family dinner replete with flavors and noise, serve it just a bit cool and watch the freshness and energy punch back against and impressive array of dishes.
In Burgundy, the concept of terroir is both essential and elusive. A host of other variables – winemaker, vintage, barrel type, bottle age, etc – often conspire to hide the power of terroir. The only way to experience this magical property fully in isolation, with all other variables held unchanged.
In a world of warmer summers and riper grapes, Chablis has become a bastion of freshness and balance. The satellite region of Burgundy lies 90 minutes north of the Côte d’Or, about half way to Paris — the climate is cooler and the terroir is stonier. The resulting wines are less ripe and more mineral than a typical Bourgogne blanc.
If there’s one wine in our portfolio that rivals white Burgundy for complexity and depth, it’s Riesling. The perennially underrated grape is capable of remarkably layered subtlety, and often comes with a surprisingly friendly pricetag. This week we opened a terrific bottle of biodynamic Grand Cru Riesling from Alsace, and we’re excited to suggest it today.
The Languedoc region of southern France produces oceans of cheap, uninteresting wine. (A few years ago the government even paid vignerons to pull up vines to limit overproduction.) But if you know where to look, the region is also the source for some excellent wines and terrific values.
A well-made entry-level Burgundy is the mark of a talented winemaker. Fancier cuvées will show off the power of terroir, and many wines from famous sites are deserving of their reputation and praise. But a Bourgogne-level wine is more a reflection of house-style and vintage.
Muscadet is a dry, lightweight, well-priced Loire Valley white. It’s grown near where the Loire River meets the Atlantic, and the wine matches the essence of the windswept coast and the shellfish of its shores. The juice of the Melon de Bourgogne grape is so pure and light that winemakers age the wine on its lees for several years to add flavor.
The soils of Burgundy vary widely based on location, but in general are some blend of argile (clay) and calcaire (limestone). The proportion of these two elements goes a long way in determining the character of wine made in each town. And in Chambolle-Musigny, it’s all about the calcaire.
We can’t tell you the real name of the Forces Telluriques — it’s an iconic Mâconnais source with an exclusive importer for the primary label. But it’s the same juice in the bottle, and extraordinary juice it is. The family who creates this wine are true believers in the theory of biodynamics — minimal vineyard intervention in the vines, meticulous and hands-off winemaking.
Michel Gros makes some of the fanciest reds in our cellar, from appellations like Vosne-Romanée and Chambolle-Musigny. Like many other Burgundian winemakers, he also makes a series of “petits vins” – wines from less exalted zip codes, with earlier drinking windows and friendlier price tags.
The Jura region has an untamed feel to it. Lying only an hour east of Burgundy, it’s a wilder, craggier landscape, producing unusual wines to match. We love its most famous product — the sherry-like oxidized Vin Jaune — but concede it’s not to everyone’s taste.
In a warming world perennially in search of freshness, Chablis is often the answer. Even amid recent scorching dry summers, many winemakers were able to channel the stony precision of Chablis into beautifully balanced wines.
When Burgundy’s leading critic singles you out as one of a “leading light” in the region, you could argue that you’d made it. But Gautier Desvignes – who in just eight short years has taken his humble family domaine from ordinary to outperforming – is not one to rest on his laurels. Each year we visit he has a new series of vineyard and cellar improvements to share and explain. In the words of Aaron Burr, “the man is non-stop.”