Magnificent Old-Vine White Burgundy from the Maconnais

Yesterday we visited Pierre Vessigaud in Pouilly-Fuissé. He’s relatively new to our portfolio, but the tasting confirmed what we already knew — this is a tremendous find. The Vessigaud domaine is Demeter certified biodynamic vigneron (the highest organic classification), and their wines are simply extraordinary in their complexity and sophistication. The 2023s we’ll be offering later this year are outstanding, but the 2022s remaining in Newton are already delicious.

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The Best Bourgogne Blanc in our Cellar

Vincent Boyer now works with his sister Sylvie, and together they share the viticulture (mostly her) and winemaking (mostly him). They’ve nearly completed their conversion to organic farming, and their always excellent wines have become even better in recent years. They raised prices after their catastrophic 2021 vintage where they lost 90% in some plots from frost, but actually lowered them this year given the healthier crop.

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“Fresh,” “Nuanced” Outstanding 2022 Nuits-St-Georges

Having just added two iconic Grand Crus to their holdings (Echezeaux and Richebourg), the Domaine Michel Gros has what Neal Martin of Vinous calls “a portfolio to be reckoned with.” Indeed their vines stretch from Bourgogne to Grand Cru and from Nuits-St-Georges all the way to Gevrey-Chambertin. Michel’s son Pierre has taken over winemaking, bringing new energy and a lower-intervention farming style.

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Dark, Balanced, Beautiful $25 Northern Rhône Syrah

The Northern Rhône is a tiny region. With just ten thousand acres of vines, it’s one sixteenth the size of the Southern Rhône Valley. And yet it’s home to the world’s finest expressions of Syrah. Iconic and ageworthy wines from Hermitage, Côte Rôtie and Cornas get much of the attention, but the lesser-known appellation of Crozes-Hermitage provides tremendous value.

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Gorgeous, Precise New 2022 Volnay

Arnaud Baillot is an exciting new producer in Burgundy. He started just 10 years ago as a micro-negociant, purchasing grapes and making tiny batches from small plots. In the last decade he has acquired 10 hectares of vines around the Côte d’Or, farming organically and crafting beautiful, understated modern Burgundy.

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“Sleek,” Powerful 2022 Morey-St-Denis 1er Cru

It’s hard to call any place in Burgundy’s Côte de Nuits “overlooked,” but Morey-Saint-Denis has always been a bit of an underdog. It’s a tiny place — about a mile from end to end, and home to fewer than 700 people — and sits between two larger and more famous neighbors. But it’s an impressive town in its own right, worthy of attention and respect.

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“Vibrant,” Superb New Red Burgundy from Michel Gros. $36

The “Michel” of Gros fame is now fully retired – or, at least, as fully retired as a winemaker can be with 45 vintages under his belt, a house nearby, and his name on the label. His son Pierre has taken the reins, representing, in Neal Martin’s words, “a change in tack rather than charting a totally different course.” Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and if his first few vintages at the helm are any indication, the future at Gros may be even brighter than the past.

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