We spend our day off with a bit of sightseeing, and some catching up on email. A short trip north to the Reims Cathedral is well worth the drive. The massive gothic masterpiece, built in stages over thousands of years and carefully restored (with, of all things, Rockefeller funding) post WWI, is magnificent; as the French say, impressionant.
Category: Uncategorized
[TravelBlog] Post Twenty-Three: Chablis, Champagne
We leave Beaune this morning under cloudy skies. As the fog lifts and the drizzle clears, we drive northwest to Chablis, Burgundy's satellite region. Our first appointment is en centre ville -- a family producer of classic, mineral Chablis. The 2013s are perhaps the best they've made in recent memory, full of life and energy, and in perfect balance.
[TravelBlog] Post Twenty-Two: Maconnais, Chalonnaise
Last day in Burgundy. We head south on the highway towards Macon, back to the region where we once spent a year living. The softly rolling hills are covered in wheat, forests, and vines, and our car dips gently as we rise and fall with the rhythm of the countryside.
[TravelBlog] Post Twenty-One: Dans les Vignes
With a morning off from tastings, I take the car for a stretch up the Côte d'Or for photo collection. The soft morning sun quickly rises past the haze and clouds to paint a picture perfect blue sky above the shimmering green rows of vines. Many vignerons are in the fields this week -- treating with insect deterrents, pruning the…
[TravelBlog] Post Twenty: Côte de Beaune
A quick coffee before heading south today -- again a clear blue sky with warm sun and a mild breeze. The floraison (flowering) happened last week, and the weather was perfect; the vignerons are trés content with the the flowering of their vines, and have begun their 100 day countdown to the maturation of the fruit.
[TravelBlog] Post Nineteen: Gevrey, Vosne, Meursault
Coffee in the apartment and a warm baguette from the boulangerie next door. Our first tasting is a new producer in Gevrey, in a beautiful 18th century house with a welcoming courtyard. The domaine is a very exciting new find, with excellent Gevrey-Chambertins at the villages, premier cru, and grand cru levels.
[TravelBlog] Post Eighteen: Nuits and Ladoix
The Gare de Lyon buzzed quietly at 6:30 this morning, with sleepy travelers standing blankfaced in line for their coffee. The train to Dijon was sunny and sleepy as it rocketed smoothly through the lush French countryside.
[TravelBlog] Post Seventeen: Adieu
Sunday coffee in Châtelet on the way to Porte de Clingancourt. We meet a local friend for a morning tour of the Les Puces market, which is sprawling and full of amazing antiques: copper pots, Victorian dresses, Louis XIV furniture, and everything in between.
Pommard: Cassis and Silk
Spend even a few days tasting Burgundy, and the power of terroir is hard to miss. During a brief visit last week, we sampled Volnay, Savigny, Givry, Mercurey, and Pommard -- five wines made from the same grape and the same region. But the characters of these wines could not be more disparate.
[TravelBlog] Post Sixteen: Paris
A quick breakfast at the Abbey, before heading north to Paris. We drop the car at the Gare de Lyon, take the metro to the Marais, and find a crêperie for lunch. Chèvre and salad, then butter and sugar, with dry sparkling cidre to match. It's cooler here, with a blue cloudless sky.
[TravelBlog] Post Fifteen: Canal de Bourgogne
Breakfast is in the light-filled winter dining room -- soft boiled eggs, croissants, local yogurt, chèvre and locally smoked salmon. We borrow a pair of bikes from the Abbey, and set out on a 25k loop around the surrounding countryside.
[TravelBlog] Post Fourteen: l’Abbaye
Croissants and coffee this morning on the Place Carnot, Beaune's central square. We head south mid morning through the Côte d'Or and out the St. Aubin valley to the Chateau de la Rochepot. The castle dates from the 13th century, and was carefully and lovingly restored in the 19th century by a local family. Rochepot boasts classic Burgundian tiled roofs,…
[TravelBlog] Post Thirteen: Beaune
We started the morning on the road, driving due north out of Provence, past Lyon, and into Burgundy. The terrain flattens out and the hills become greener; the sun today is clear and very warm.
[TravelBlog] Post Twelve: Gigondas
We took our coffee in Vaison-la-Romaine this morning, in view of the extensive, sprawling weekly market. The market is an impressive collection of vendors selling everything from meats to wicker baskets to clothes to soaps and spices. We grab a few souvenirs, then head back to Gigondas.
[TravelBlog] Post Eleven: Vaison-la-Romaine
The morning is cool, clear, and sunny; light bounces from the shimmering olive trees. Began the morning with a trip to the local market for lettuce, fruit, sausage, olives, and a collection of cheeses.