André Châteauneuf-du-Pape rouge 2017

Jacqueline André’s grandfather decided in 1963 that chemicals were not good for his old vines, so he stopped using them then and there. The domaine has been certified organic since 1980 (the first in the appellation), and the vines Jaqueline’s grandfather left her have reached 140 years old.

The 2017 red offers a beautifully expressive nose of plum/raspberry fruit, smoke, and pan drippings. It fills the mouth but is neither hot nor heavy; there’s plenty of support but the structure is beautifully knit together. This wine will be delicious in its early years when the fruit dominates, and it will be equally delicious as it evolves over the years to show notes of leather, licorice, and forest floor.