Boisseyt Condrieu 2018

Thirtysomething winemaker Romain Decelle is part of a winemaking family stretching from Bordeaux to Burgundy, and today he farms 24 hectares of Syrah and Viognier in St-Joseph and Côte Rôtie. Finally, de Boisseyt’s Condrieu, a pure viognier wine vinified in barrel. Their 2018 Condrieu is lovely and classic, a dry and concentrated version of the famously aromatic wine. Look for restrained oak alongside notes of peaches and white flowers. This is delicious and tightly wound, middle-weight rather than huge, and intense rather than explosive. It’s less sweetly floral than Bonnefond’s, and perhaps more serious.