Couvent Nuits-St-Georges 1er “Aux Murgers” 2021

Winemaker Philippe Cheron’s success in the tricky 2021 vintage is a marker of unusual talent. His unmarked cuverie is hidden down a back street in Nuits-St-Georges, and Cheron himself is quiet and pensive. But his wines more than speak for themselves.

From a vineyard near the border with Vosne-Romanée. It was vinified from 100% whole bunches, which gave it a terrific intensity and depth. The nose is inky and dark with cassis and violets, the mouth long and sleek. Morris gave 92-95 points, finding “a gorgeous, airy, floral note to the bouquet, and the little dryness at the back which will soon disappear into the sweet cherry fruit.” The vines were planted in the mid nineteen-forties, and the special intensity and length of wine from truly old vines shows through.